Trouble printing small thin pole
$begingroup$
3D-printing newbie here. I have a Geeetech's Prusa i3 mk2 B.
I'm trying to print this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1358311
That's a mold, with 2 external parts and a core. The exterior prints wonderful. But the core is too messy. Take a look at this:
What riddles me is that the side parts, and the pole's base, print fine; so this does not look like a bad calibrated printer, but something else entirely. My guess is this is some precise tuning I don't know yet.
I've been trying to print that little pole without success for over a week now. Tried all this:
- Changing the slicer program (I've used Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r prusa edition)
- Tuning the e-steps for avoiding over-extrusion.
- Tuning the z-steps, so the nozzle doesn't melt the last layer when printing a new one.
- In the same sense, changed the nozzle heat.
- Tried lots of different layering, speed, walls, bridging, and quirks configurations.
So far, the best I got is a little pole not-too-deformed so I can make my part anyway, even when the pole is not well printed. But after seeing lots of videos and reading lots of tips online, I still don't understand how to tune my print for that simple little pole.
Other that tips, what I would really like to ask is if somebody has a name for that problem I'm facing, so it would be much more easy to search for my tuning options.
So... any clue how to fix this?
prusa-i3 cura slic3r geeetech
New contributor
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
3D-printing newbie here. I have a Geeetech's Prusa i3 mk2 B.
I'm trying to print this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1358311
That's a mold, with 2 external parts and a core. The exterior prints wonderful. But the core is too messy. Take a look at this:
What riddles me is that the side parts, and the pole's base, print fine; so this does not look like a bad calibrated printer, but something else entirely. My guess is this is some precise tuning I don't know yet.
I've been trying to print that little pole without success for over a week now. Tried all this:
- Changing the slicer program (I've used Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r prusa edition)
- Tuning the e-steps for avoiding over-extrusion.
- Tuning the z-steps, so the nozzle doesn't melt the last layer when printing a new one.
- In the same sense, changed the nozzle heat.
- Tried lots of different layering, speed, walls, bridging, and quirks configurations.
So far, the best I got is a little pole not-too-deformed so I can make my part anyway, even when the pole is not well printed. But after seeing lots of videos and reading lots of tips online, I still don't understand how to tune my print for that simple little pole.
Other that tips, what I would really like to ask is if somebody has a name for that problem I'm facing, so it would be much more easy to search for my tuning options.
So... any clue how to fix this?
prusa-i3 cura slic3r geeetech
New contributor
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Try printing it at 1/10 the speed that you normally do, or switch to a smaller nozzle, re-slice, then try again. What material are you printing in?
$endgroup$
– user77232
yesterday
add a comment |
$begingroup$
3D-printing newbie here. I have a Geeetech's Prusa i3 mk2 B.
I'm trying to print this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1358311
That's a mold, with 2 external parts and a core. The exterior prints wonderful. But the core is too messy. Take a look at this:
What riddles me is that the side parts, and the pole's base, print fine; so this does not look like a bad calibrated printer, but something else entirely. My guess is this is some precise tuning I don't know yet.
I've been trying to print that little pole without success for over a week now. Tried all this:
- Changing the slicer program (I've used Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r prusa edition)
- Tuning the e-steps for avoiding over-extrusion.
- Tuning the z-steps, so the nozzle doesn't melt the last layer when printing a new one.
- In the same sense, changed the nozzle heat.
- Tried lots of different layering, speed, walls, bridging, and quirks configurations.
So far, the best I got is a little pole not-too-deformed so I can make my part anyway, even when the pole is not well printed. But after seeing lots of videos and reading lots of tips online, I still don't understand how to tune my print for that simple little pole.
Other that tips, what I would really like to ask is if somebody has a name for that problem I'm facing, so it would be much more easy to search for my tuning options.
So... any clue how to fix this?
prusa-i3 cura slic3r geeetech
New contributor
$endgroup$
3D-printing newbie here. I have a Geeetech's Prusa i3 mk2 B.
I'm trying to print this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1358311
That's a mold, with 2 external parts and a core. The exterior prints wonderful. But the core is too messy. Take a look at this:
What riddles me is that the side parts, and the pole's base, print fine; so this does not look like a bad calibrated printer, but something else entirely. My guess is this is some precise tuning I don't know yet.
I've been trying to print that little pole without success for over a week now. Tried all this:
- Changing the slicer program (I've used Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r prusa edition)
- Tuning the e-steps for avoiding over-extrusion.
- Tuning the z-steps, so the nozzle doesn't melt the last layer when printing a new one.
- In the same sense, changed the nozzle heat.
- Tried lots of different layering, speed, walls, bridging, and quirks configurations.
So far, the best I got is a little pole not-too-deformed so I can make my part anyway, even when the pole is not well printed. But after seeing lots of videos and reading lots of tips online, I still don't understand how to tune my print for that simple little pole.
Other that tips, what I would really like to ask is if somebody has a name for that problem I'm facing, so it would be much more easy to search for my tuning options.
So... any clue how to fix this?
prusa-i3 cura slic3r geeetech
prusa-i3 cura slic3r geeetech
New contributor
New contributor
edited yesterday
0scar
13k31750
13k31750
New contributor
asked yesterday
Daniel CantarinDaniel Cantarin
161
161
New contributor
New contributor
1
$begingroup$
Try printing it at 1/10 the speed that you normally do, or switch to a smaller nozzle, re-slice, then try again. What material are you printing in?
$endgroup$
– user77232
yesterday
add a comment |
1
$begingroup$
Try printing it at 1/10 the speed that you normally do, or switch to a smaller nozzle, re-slice, then try again. What material are you printing in?
$endgroup$
– user77232
yesterday
1
1
$begingroup$
Try printing it at 1/10 the speed that you normally do, or switch to a smaller nozzle, re-slice, then try again. What material are you printing in?
$endgroup$
– user77232
yesterday
$begingroup$
Try printing it at 1/10 the speed that you normally do, or switch to a smaller nozzle, re-slice, then try again. What material are you printing in?
$endgroup$
– user77232
yesterday
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
Basically, you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers.
You can easily solve this by printing two identical parts spaced apart from each other. This allows the layers to cool before the next is deposited.
From mastering Ultimaker Cura:
When printing a series of small parts, print them all together. The
travel time between the parts is often enough time for the layers to
cool without changing your settings.
If you do want this to print as a single piece, you need to:
tune down hotend temperature (use the minimum temperature that gives good print results, printing a temperature tower will help to determine this),
increase minimal layer time (may not always work as speed will not be lowered under the minimum printing speed) and
increase part cooling fan percentage (or print a better fan duct that allows for more cooling air to reach the print; many fan ducts are too convergent, the pressure increase is then too big for the fan to effectively push air through it).
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The thin core gathers too much heat in the printing process. If you need to print slender objects, either:
- print several.
- activate
minimum layer time
to 10 to 15 seconds and the accompanying Z-hop. It will pause between layers if the object is really thin.
This way the part has a chance to cool down between printing layers.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Although you are correct, adding Z-hop introduces the chance of a leaking/oozing hotend or filament not being extruded in time, that would not be my personal preferred solution for people starting using 3D printers for the first time.
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The other answers have addressed the heat problem. The other risk is that a rod printed vertically like this is prone to snap, because the weakest axis is between layers.
I often rotate pieces like this and print with the rod horizontal. You then have to remove the support and/or brim material, and probably do a bit of sanding to get it properly round, but the final part will be much more reliable (not break).
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Yes strength can be a problem, I've printed such parts with room for a screw to strengthen the part. But if that is not possible, a change in print orientation might be very helpful!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
add a comment |
Your Answer
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3 Answers
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active
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
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oldest
votes
$begingroup$
Basically, you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers.
You can easily solve this by printing two identical parts spaced apart from each other. This allows the layers to cool before the next is deposited.
From mastering Ultimaker Cura:
When printing a series of small parts, print them all together. The
travel time between the parts is often enough time for the layers to
cool without changing your settings.
If you do want this to print as a single piece, you need to:
tune down hotend temperature (use the minimum temperature that gives good print results, printing a temperature tower will help to determine this),
increase minimal layer time (may not always work as speed will not be lowered under the minimum printing speed) and
increase part cooling fan percentage (or print a better fan duct that allows for more cooling air to reach the print; many fan ducts are too convergent, the pressure increase is then too big for the fan to effectively push air through it).
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Basically, you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers.
You can easily solve this by printing two identical parts spaced apart from each other. This allows the layers to cool before the next is deposited.
From mastering Ultimaker Cura:
When printing a series of small parts, print them all together. The
travel time between the parts is often enough time for the layers to
cool without changing your settings.
If you do want this to print as a single piece, you need to:
tune down hotend temperature (use the minimum temperature that gives good print results, printing a temperature tower will help to determine this),
increase minimal layer time (may not always work as speed will not be lowered under the minimum printing speed) and
increase part cooling fan percentage (or print a better fan duct that allows for more cooling air to reach the print; many fan ducts are too convergent, the pressure increase is then too big for the fan to effectively push air through it).
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Basically, you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers.
You can easily solve this by printing two identical parts spaced apart from each other. This allows the layers to cool before the next is deposited.
From mastering Ultimaker Cura:
When printing a series of small parts, print them all together. The
travel time between the parts is often enough time for the layers to
cool without changing your settings.
If you do want this to print as a single piece, you need to:
tune down hotend temperature (use the minimum temperature that gives good print results, printing a temperature tower will help to determine this),
increase minimal layer time (may not always work as speed will not be lowered under the minimum printing speed) and
increase part cooling fan percentage (or print a better fan duct that allows for more cooling air to reach the print; many fan ducts are too convergent, the pressure increase is then too big for the fan to effectively push air through it).
$endgroup$
Basically, you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers.
You can easily solve this by printing two identical parts spaced apart from each other. This allows the layers to cool before the next is deposited.
From mastering Ultimaker Cura:
When printing a series of small parts, print them all together. The
travel time between the parts is often enough time for the layers to
cool without changing your settings.
If you do want this to print as a single piece, you need to:
tune down hotend temperature (use the minimum temperature that gives good print results, printing a temperature tower will help to determine this),
increase minimal layer time (may not always work as speed will not be lowered under the minimum printing speed) and
increase part cooling fan percentage (or print a better fan duct that allows for more cooling air to reach the print; many fan ducts are too convergent, the pressure increase is then too big for the fan to effectively push air through it).
edited 11 hours ago
answered yesterday
0scar0scar
13k31750
13k31750
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The thin core gathers too much heat in the printing process. If you need to print slender objects, either:
- print several.
- activate
minimum layer time
to 10 to 15 seconds and the accompanying Z-hop. It will pause between layers if the object is really thin.
This way the part has a chance to cool down between printing layers.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Although you are correct, adding Z-hop introduces the chance of a leaking/oozing hotend or filament not being extruded in time, that would not be my personal preferred solution for people starting using 3D printers for the first time.
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The thin core gathers too much heat in the printing process. If you need to print slender objects, either:
- print several.
- activate
minimum layer time
to 10 to 15 seconds and the accompanying Z-hop. It will pause between layers if the object is really thin.
This way the part has a chance to cool down between printing layers.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Although you are correct, adding Z-hop introduces the chance of a leaking/oozing hotend or filament not being extruded in time, that would not be my personal preferred solution for people starting using 3D printers for the first time.
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The thin core gathers too much heat in the printing process. If you need to print slender objects, either:
- print several.
- activate
minimum layer time
to 10 to 15 seconds and the accompanying Z-hop. It will pause between layers if the object is really thin.
This way the part has a chance to cool down between printing layers.
$endgroup$
The thin core gathers too much heat in the printing process. If you need to print slender objects, either:
- print several.
- activate
minimum layer time
to 10 to 15 seconds and the accompanying Z-hop. It will pause between layers if the object is really thin.
This way the part has a chance to cool down between printing layers.
answered yesterday
TrishTrish
6,40221342
6,40221342
$begingroup$
Although you are correct, adding Z-hop introduces the chance of a leaking/oozing hotend or filament not being extruded in time, that would not be my personal preferred solution for people starting using 3D printers for the first time.
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Although you are correct, adding Z-hop introduces the chance of a leaking/oozing hotend or filament not being extruded in time, that would not be my personal preferred solution for people starting using 3D printers for the first time.
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
Although you are correct, adding Z-hop introduces the chance of a leaking/oozing hotend or filament not being extruded in time, that would not be my personal preferred solution for people starting using 3D printers for the first time.
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
Although you are correct, adding Z-hop introduces the chance of a leaking/oozing hotend or filament not being extruded in time, that would not be my personal preferred solution for people starting using 3D printers for the first time.
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The other answers have addressed the heat problem. The other risk is that a rod printed vertically like this is prone to snap, because the weakest axis is between layers.
I often rotate pieces like this and print with the rod horizontal. You then have to remove the support and/or brim material, and probably do a bit of sanding to get it properly round, but the final part will be much more reliable (not break).
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Yes strength can be a problem, I've printed such parts with room for a screw to strengthen the part. But if that is not possible, a change in print orientation might be very helpful!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The other answers have addressed the heat problem. The other risk is that a rod printed vertically like this is prone to snap, because the weakest axis is between layers.
I often rotate pieces like this and print with the rod horizontal. You then have to remove the support and/or brim material, and probably do a bit of sanding to get it properly round, but the final part will be much more reliable (not break).
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Yes strength can be a problem, I've printed such parts with room for a screw to strengthen the part. But if that is not possible, a change in print orientation might be very helpful!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The other answers have addressed the heat problem. The other risk is that a rod printed vertically like this is prone to snap, because the weakest axis is between layers.
I often rotate pieces like this and print with the rod horizontal. You then have to remove the support and/or brim material, and probably do a bit of sanding to get it properly round, but the final part will be much more reliable (not break).
$endgroup$
The other answers have addressed the heat problem. The other risk is that a rod printed vertically like this is prone to snap, because the weakest axis is between layers.
I often rotate pieces like this and print with the rod horizontal. You then have to remove the support and/or brim material, and probably do a bit of sanding to get it properly round, but the final part will be much more reliable (not break).
answered 19 hours ago
Carl WitthoftCarl Witthoft
2,155315
2,155315
$begingroup$
Yes strength can be a problem, I've printed such parts with room for a screw to strengthen the part. But if that is not possible, a change in print orientation might be very helpful!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Yes strength can be a problem, I've printed such parts with room for a screw to strengthen the part. But if that is not possible, a change in print orientation might be very helpful!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
Yes strength can be a problem, I've printed such parts with room for a screw to strengthen the part. But if that is not possible, a change in print orientation might be very helpful!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
Yes strength can be a problem, I've printed such parts with room for a screw to strengthen the part. But if that is not possible, a change in print orientation might be very helpful!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
add a comment |
Daniel Cantarin is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Daniel Cantarin is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Daniel Cantarin is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Daniel Cantarin is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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$begingroup$
Try printing it at 1/10 the speed that you normally do, or switch to a smaller nozzle, re-slice, then try again. What material are you printing in?
$endgroup$
– user77232
yesterday