New brakes for 90s road bike Planned maintenance scheduled April 23, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern) Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara Unicorn Meta Zoo #1: Why another podcast?Will a road brake lever work with a v-brake?New Bicycle - Brakes SqueakModern long reach calipers on old bike, strong enough for safe braking from the hoods?Subtle click on left Shimano 4700 STI brake lever when applying brake while moving forwardBR505 disc vs Ultegra 6800 caliperHow many fingers on the brakes for a road bike?Switching from MTB to road handlebarsWhat is special about 1x11 - why not just big cassette and single front ring?Hydraulic disc brakes stuck on new bikeWhy is Shimano's 105 groupset called 105?

How do I find out the mythology and history of my Fortress?

What is the meaning of 'breadth' in breadth first search?

Most bit efficient text communication method?

When a candle burns, why does the top of wick glow if bottom of flame is hottest?

How does the math work when buying airline miles?

Put R under double integral

Hangman Game with C++

How to compare two different files line by line in unix?

Subalgebra of a group algebra

Exposing GRASS GIS add-on in QGIS Processing framework?

Using audio cues to encourage good posture

Why is it faster to reheat something than it is to cook it?

Time to Settle Down!

An adverb for when you're not exaggerating

QGIS virtual layer functionality does not seem to support memory layers

Importance of からだ in this sentence

What order were files/directories outputted in dir?

Why weren't discrete x86 CPUs ever used in game hardware?

Would it be possible to dictate a bech32 address as a list of English words?

Sum letters are not two different

What do you call the main part of a joke?

What is "gratricide"?

Can anything be seen from the center of the Boötes void? How dark would it be?

Is it fair for a professor to grade us on the possession of past papers?



New brakes for 90s road bike



Planned maintenance scheduled April 23, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern)
Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara
Unicorn Meta Zoo #1: Why another podcast?Will a road brake lever work with a v-brake?New Bicycle - Brakes SqueakModern long reach calipers on old bike, strong enough for safe braking from the hoods?Subtle click on left Shimano 4700 STI brake lever when applying brake while moving forwardBR505 disc vs Ultegra 6800 caliperHow many fingers on the brakes for a road bike?Switching from MTB to road handlebarsWhat is special about 1x11 - why not just big cassette and single front ring?Hydraulic disc brakes stuck on new bikeWhy is Shimano's 105 groupset called 105?










3















I am riding 90s road bike with Shimano 105 dual-pivot brakes and brake levers, and 2x7 downtube shifters. Since braking becomes less and less reliable I want to replace both brakes and levers with something new.



There's a plenty of good opinions on 105 br-r7000 but I am having hard time to find matching levers. I don't think there are any compatible shiftless levers. Can I go with cheaper claris shift levers or do I need to pay for 105?



Bonus question: could I use 11 speed 105 shifters to work with 7/8 rear derailleur if I do STI conversation?



EDIT:



First, thanks for so many great comments. I see I have missed some important information:



  • my goal is to improve braking performance - it feels underpowered and my rear brake lever has a crack already.

  • I have already replaced cables, brakepads (swisstop) and my bike is running brand new wheels (frame was cold-set to 130mm)

  • fit 28mm tires

From what I have found, here are some interesting brake / lever combinations:



  • Shimano BL-R400 ($35, brake levers, no shifter, SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR)

  • Claris: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR)

  • Claris+105: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV)

  • 105: ST-R7000 ($185, SLR-EV) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV)

  • SRAM S 500 ($75 brake levers) + SRAM Rival 22 brake ($75)









share|improve this question



















  • 1





    Start with checking the brake pads - you probably have cartridge holders and some simple replacement pads will help enormously.

    – Criggie
    Mar 23 at 10:12






  • 1





    Why not just replace the brake pads? The Shimano dual-pivots are pretty good stuff and should last a lifetime.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    Mar 23 at 11:38






  • 1





    OK cracks in brake components absolutely means they need replacing. Don't try and fix the crack - its a parts donor and nothing more now.

    – Criggie
    Mar 24 at 18:35















3















I am riding 90s road bike with Shimano 105 dual-pivot brakes and brake levers, and 2x7 downtube shifters. Since braking becomes less and less reliable I want to replace both brakes and levers with something new.



There's a plenty of good opinions on 105 br-r7000 but I am having hard time to find matching levers. I don't think there are any compatible shiftless levers. Can I go with cheaper claris shift levers or do I need to pay for 105?



Bonus question: could I use 11 speed 105 shifters to work with 7/8 rear derailleur if I do STI conversation?



EDIT:



First, thanks for so many great comments. I see I have missed some important information:



  • my goal is to improve braking performance - it feels underpowered and my rear brake lever has a crack already.

  • I have already replaced cables, brakepads (swisstop) and my bike is running brand new wheels (frame was cold-set to 130mm)

  • fit 28mm tires

From what I have found, here are some interesting brake / lever combinations:



  • Shimano BL-R400 ($35, brake levers, no shifter, SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR)

  • Claris: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR)

  • Claris+105: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV)

  • 105: ST-R7000 ($185, SLR-EV) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV)

  • SRAM S 500 ($75 brake levers) + SRAM Rival 22 brake ($75)









share|improve this question



















  • 1





    Start with checking the brake pads - you probably have cartridge holders and some simple replacement pads will help enormously.

    – Criggie
    Mar 23 at 10:12






  • 1





    Why not just replace the brake pads? The Shimano dual-pivots are pretty good stuff and should last a lifetime.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    Mar 23 at 11:38






  • 1





    OK cracks in brake components absolutely means they need replacing. Don't try and fix the crack - its a parts donor and nothing more now.

    – Criggie
    Mar 24 at 18:35













3












3








3


2






I am riding 90s road bike with Shimano 105 dual-pivot brakes and brake levers, and 2x7 downtube shifters. Since braking becomes less and less reliable I want to replace both brakes and levers with something new.



There's a plenty of good opinions on 105 br-r7000 but I am having hard time to find matching levers. I don't think there are any compatible shiftless levers. Can I go with cheaper claris shift levers or do I need to pay for 105?



Bonus question: could I use 11 speed 105 shifters to work with 7/8 rear derailleur if I do STI conversation?



EDIT:



First, thanks for so many great comments. I see I have missed some important information:



  • my goal is to improve braking performance - it feels underpowered and my rear brake lever has a crack already.

  • I have already replaced cables, brakepads (swisstop) and my bike is running brand new wheels (frame was cold-set to 130mm)

  • fit 28mm tires

From what I have found, here are some interesting brake / lever combinations:



  • Shimano BL-R400 ($35, brake levers, no shifter, SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR)

  • Claris: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR)

  • Claris+105: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV)

  • 105: ST-R7000 ($185, SLR-EV) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV)

  • SRAM S 500 ($75 brake levers) + SRAM Rival 22 brake ($75)









share|improve this question
















I am riding 90s road bike with Shimano 105 dual-pivot brakes and brake levers, and 2x7 downtube shifters. Since braking becomes less and less reliable I want to replace both brakes and levers with something new.



There's a plenty of good opinions on 105 br-r7000 but I am having hard time to find matching levers. I don't think there are any compatible shiftless levers. Can I go with cheaper claris shift levers or do I need to pay for 105?



Bonus question: could I use 11 speed 105 shifters to work with 7/8 rear derailleur if I do STI conversation?



EDIT:



First, thanks for so many great comments. I see I have missed some important information:



  • my goal is to improve braking performance - it feels underpowered and my rear brake lever has a crack already.

  • I have already replaced cables, brakepads (swisstop) and my bike is running brand new wheels (frame was cold-set to 130mm)

  • fit 28mm tires

From what I have found, here are some interesting brake / lever combinations:



  • Shimano BL-R400 ($35, brake levers, no shifter, SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR)

  • Claris: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR)

  • Claris+105: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV)

  • 105: ST-R7000 ($185, SLR-EV) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV)

  • SRAM S 500 ($75 brake levers) + SRAM Rival 22 brake ($75)






road-bike brakes shimano






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited Mar 24 at 7:52







jareks

















asked Mar 23 at 8:45









jareksjareks

1183




1183







  • 1





    Start with checking the brake pads - you probably have cartridge holders and some simple replacement pads will help enormously.

    – Criggie
    Mar 23 at 10:12






  • 1





    Why not just replace the brake pads? The Shimano dual-pivots are pretty good stuff and should last a lifetime.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    Mar 23 at 11:38






  • 1





    OK cracks in brake components absolutely means they need replacing. Don't try and fix the crack - its a parts donor and nothing more now.

    – Criggie
    Mar 24 at 18:35












  • 1





    Start with checking the brake pads - you probably have cartridge holders and some simple replacement pads will help enormously.

    – Criggie
    Mar 23 at 10:12






  • 1





    Why not just replace the brake pads? The Shimano dual-pivots are pretty good stuff and should last a lifetime.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    Mar 23 at 11:38






  • 1





    OK cracks in brake components absolutely means they need replacing. Don't try and fix the crack - its a parts donor and nothing more now.

    – Criggie
    Mar 24 at 18:35







1




1





Start with checking the brake pads - you probably have cartridge holders and some simple replacement pads will help enormously.

– Criggie
Mar 23 at 10:12





Start with checking the brake pads - you probably have cartridge holders and some simple replacement pads will help enormously.

– Criggie
Mar 23 at 10:12




1




1





Why not just replace the brake pads? The Shimano dual-pivots are pretty good stuff and should last a lifetime.

– Daniel R Hicks
Mar 23 at 11:38





Why not just replace the brake pads? The Shimano dual-pivots are pretty good stuff and should last a lifetime.

– Daniel R Hicks
Mar 23 at 11:38




1




1





OK cracks in brake components absolutely means they need replacing. Don't try and fix the crack - its a parts donor and nothing more now.

– Criggie
Mar 24 at 18:35





OK cracks in brake components absolutely means they need replacing. Don't try and fix the crack - its a parts donor and nothing more now.

– Criggie
Mar 24 at 18:35










4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes


















4














Most likely the problem is not with the actual brakes, but cables and brake pads. Replacing these is very likely to fix your problems.



If you want to replace everything and keep everything in official Shimano spec, it seems that there aren't non-shifter brake levers. The options are to install the expensive and useless shift levers, non-Shimano brakes or use a non Super SLR lever that results in slightly mushier feel.






share|improve this answer























  • A brake refresh definitely sounds in order. Pads, cables, housings and proper adjustment.

    – Argenti Apparatus
    Mar 23 at 13:02












  • @ojs thanks for helping! Cables and breakpads are already replaced- I have added some more information to original post. I am also open to non-shimano brakes/leavers if there are any good options available? Tektro R540 have poor ratings and SRAM break-levers are greatly overpriced.

    – jareks
    Mar 23 at 14:37











  • Levers and brakes don't have to be same brand. Campagnolo brakes are pretty good but they don't have quick release so you have to do without or use Campagnolo levers or the Cane Creek copies. And by the way, break and brake are different words with different meanings.

    – ojs
    Mar 23 at 14:54











  • There are the non-shifter Shimano Ultegra BL-R600 levers available. Usually supplied with a full set of cable inners and outers...

    – Lamar Latrell
    Mar 23 at 20:40











  • Did you notice the "We’re very sorry but we don’t know when this item will be back in stock" part? Seems that nobody has those any more, they aren't listed on Shimano website and the super SLR compatibility is left to guess.

    – ojs
    Mar 23 at 22:15


















4














There's no reason that old brake calipers should become less effective. In the 1990s, we knew plenty enough materials engineering to make good brake calipers and there's no reason for calipers to degrade. In contrast, brake pads wear away and brake cables stretch and fray. It sounds very much like those are the components you should be replacing.






share|improve this answer























  • Indeed, shimano 105 are very sturdy, but mine after 25 years don't work that great. One lever has a crack on top of hoods and moves a bit sideway when pressing. And calipers itself also wear out slowly. Maybe reconditioning them like shown here would help: youtube.com/watch?v=TqbCR83psAg but I am more intersted in new parts at the moment.

    – jareks
    Mar 23 at 14:41











  • @jareks Cracked? That could be bad - can you post a photo into your original question?

    – Criggie
    Mar 23 at 20:03


















2














Answering the bonus question - no. 7 is decades away from 11 speed.



So if your OLD is 130mm you could throw money at the problem and replace



  • Brake levers with STI Brifters

  • New inner/outer cables

  • Remove downtube shifters and fit two barrel bosses

  • New rear 11 speed derailleur

  • New 11 speed cassette

  • New 11 speed chain

  • New 11 speed freehub, which probably means a new 11 speed compatible wheel hub.

About this time add up the costs and see its an affordable number. I doubt its a small number, so unless you have some ebay wins or some spare parts or a complete donor bike, it going to be expensive and therefore a bad spend.



On the plus side, if you do this there's a fair chance the front derailleur and chainrings will work okay in an 11 speed environment. Or you could leave the downtube shifter on the left for the front mech and only use the STI brifter on the right hand. May benefit from squeezing the front mech's cage slighty to account for the narrower chain.






share|improve this answer

























  • Road 7-speed was 126mm. Mixing narrow chain with old double chainrings is a very bad idea, because the chain can jam between the rings.

    – ojs
    Mar 23 at 11:09






  • 1





    Thanks for your help! Indeed my bike was 126mm at the rear, but I have already cold-set it to 130mm and it is running new pair of wheels.

    – jareks
    Mar 23 at 13:49



















0














Save your money, clean your shifters, replace your cables and housings and replace your brake pads with Koolstops.






share|improve this answer























    Your Answer








    StackExchange.ready(function()
    var channelOptions =
    tags: "".split(" "),
    id: "126"
    ;
    initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

    StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
    // Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
    if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
    StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
    createEditor();
    );

    else
    createEditor();

    );

    function createEditor()
    StackExchange.prepareEditor(
    heartbeatType: 'answer',
    autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
    convertImagesToLinks: false,
    noModals: true,
    showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
    reputationToPostImages: null,
    bindNavPrevention: true,
    postfix: "",
    imageUploader:
    brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
    contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
    allowUrls: true
    ,
    noCode: true, onDemand: true,
    discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
    ,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
    );



    );













    draft saved

    draft discarded


















    StackExchange.ready(
    function ()
    StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fbicycles.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f59915%2fnew-brakes-for-90s-road-bike%23new-answer', 'question_page');

    );

    Post as a guest















    Required, but never shown

























    4 Answers
    4






    active

    oldest

    votes








    4 Answers
    4






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    4














    Most likely the problem is not with the actual brakes, but cables and brake pads. Replacing these is very likely to fix your problems.



    If you want to replace everything and keep everything in official Shimano spec, it seems that there aren't non-shifter brake levers. The options are to install the expensive and useless shift levers, non-Shimano brakes or use a non Super SLR lever that results in slightly mushier feel.






    share|improve this answer























    • A brake refresh definitely sounds in order. Pads, cables, housings and proper adjustment.

      – Argenti Apparatus
      Mar 23 at 13:02












    • @ojs thanks for helping! Cables and breakpads are already replaced- I have added some more information to original post. I am also open to non-shimano brakes/leavers if there are any good options available? Tektro R540 have poor ratings and SRAM break-levers are greatly overpriced.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 14:37











    • Levers and brakes don't have to be same brand. Campagnolo brakes are pretty good but they don't have quick release so you have to do without or use Campagnolo levers or the Cane Creek copies. And by the way, break and brake are different words with different meanings.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 14:54











    • There are the non-shifter Shimano Ultegra BL-R600 levers available. Usually supplied with a full set of cable inners and outers...

      – Lamar Latrell
      Mar 23 at 20:40











    • Did you notice the "We’re very sorry but we don’t know when this item will be back in stock" part? Seems that nobody has those any more, they aren't listed on Shimano website and the super SLR compatibility is left to guess.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 22:15















    4














    Most likely the problem is not with the actual brakes, but cables and brake pads. Replacing these is very likely to fix your problems.



    If you want to replace everything and keep everything in official Shimano spec, it seems that there aren't non-shifter brake levers. The options are to install the expensive and useless shift levers, non-Shimano brakes or use a non Super SLR lever that results in slightly mushier feel.






    share|improve this answer























    • A brake refresh definitely sounds in order. Pads, cables, housings and proper adjustment.

      – Argenti Apparatus
      Mar 23 at 13:02












    • @ojs thanks for helping! Cables and breakpads are already replaced- I have added some more information to original post. I am also open to non-shimano brakes/leavers if there are any good options available? Tektro R540 have poor ratings and SRAM break-levers are greatly overpriced.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 14:37











    • Levers and brakes don't have to be same brand. Campagnolo brakes are pretty good but they don't have quick release so you have to do without or use Campagnolo levers or the Cane Creek copies. And by the way, break and brake are different words with different meanings.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 14:54











    • There are the non-shifter Shimano Ultegra BL-R600 levers available. Usually supplied with a full set of cable inners and outers...

      – Lamar Latrell
      Mar 23 at 20:40











    • Did you notice the "We’re very sorry but we don’t know when this item will be back in stock" part? Seems that nobody has those any more, they aren't listed on Shimano website and the super SLR compatibility is left to guess.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 22:15













    4












    4








    4







    Most likely the problem is not with the actual brakes, but cables and brake pads. Replacing these is very likely to fix your problems.



    If you want to replace everything and keep everything in official Shimano spec, it seems that there aren't non-shifter brake levers. The options are to install the expensive and useless shift levers, non-Shimano brakes or use a non Super SLR lever that results in slightly mushier feel.






    share|improve this answer













    Most likely the problem is not with the actual brakes, but cables and brake pads. Replacing these is very likely to fix your problems.



    If you want to replace everything and keep everything in official Shimano spec, it seems that there aren't non-shifter brake levers. The options are to install the expensive and useless shift levers, non-Shimano brakes or use a non Super SLR lever that results in slightly mushier feel.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered Mar 23 at 9:52









    ojsojs

    12.3k22245




    12.3k22245












    • A brake refresh definitely sounds in order. Pads, cables, housings and proper adjustment.

      – Argenti Apparatus
      Mar 23 at 13:02












    • @ojs thanks for helping! Cables and breakpads are already replaced- I have added some more information to original post. I am also open to non-shimano brakes/leavers if there are any good options available? Tektro R540 have poor ratings and SRAM break-levers are greatly overpriced.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 14:37











    • Levers and brakes don't have to be same brand. Campagnolo brakes are pretty good but they don't have quick release so you have to do without or use Campagnolo levers or the Cane Creek copies. And by the way, break and brake are different words with different meanings.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 14:54











    • There are the non-shifter Shimano Ultegra BL-R600 levers available. Usually supplied with a full set of cable inners and outers...

      – Lamar Latrell
      Mar 23 at 20:40











    • Did you notice the "We’re very sorry but we don’t know when this item will be back in stock" part? Seems that nobody has those any more, they aren't listed on Shimano website and the super SLR compatibility is left to guess.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 22:15

















    • A brake refresh definitely sounds in order. Pads, cables, housings and proper adjustment.

      – Argenti Apparatus
      Mar 23 at 13:02












    • @ojs thanks for helping! Cables and breakpads are already replaced- I have added some more information to original post. I am also open to non-shimano brakes/leavers if there are any good options available? Tektro R540 have poor ratings and SRAM break-levers are greatly overpriced.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 14:37











    • Levers and brakes don't have to be same brand. Campagnolo brakes are pretty good but they don't have quick release so you have to do without or use Campagnolo levers or the Cane Creek copies. And by the way, break and brake are different words with different meanings.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 14:54











    • There are the non-shifter Shimano Ultegra BL-R600 levers available. Usually supplied with a full set of cable inners and outers...

      – Lamar Latrell
      Mar 23 at 20:40











    • Did you notice the "We’re very sorry but we don’t know when this item will be back in stock" part? Seems that nobody has those any more, they aren't listed on Shimano website and the super SLR compatibility is left to guess.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 22:15
















    A brake refresh definitely sounds in order. Pads, cables, housings and proper adjustment.

    – Argenti Apparatus
    Mar 23 at 13:02






    A brake refresh definitely sounds in order. Pads, cables, housings and proper adjustment.

    – Argenti Apparatus
    Mar 23 at 13:02














    @ojs thanks for helping! Cables and breakpads are already replaced- I have added some more information to original post. I am also open to non-shimano brakes/leavers if there are any good options available? Tektro R540 have poor ratings and SRAM break-levers are greatly overpriced.

    – jareks
    Mar 23 at 14:37





    @ojs thanks for helping! Cables and breakpads are already replaced- I have added some more information to original post. I am also open to non-shimano brakes/leavers if there are any good options available? Tektro R540 have poor ratings and SRAM break-levers are greatly overpriced.

    – jareks
    Mar 23 at 14:37













    Levers and brakes don't have to be same brand. Campagnolo brakes are pretty good but they don't have quick release so you have to do without or use Campagnolo levers or the Cane Creek copies. And by the way, break and brake are different words with different meanings.

    – ojs
    Mar 23 at 14:54





    Levers and brakes don't have to be same brand. Campagnolo brakes are pretty good but they don't have quick release so you have to do without or use Campagnolo levers or the Cane Creek copies. And by the way, break and brake are different words with different meanings.

    – ojs
    Mar 23 at 14:54













    There are the non-shifter Shimano Ultegra BL-R600 levers available. Usually supplied with a full set of cable inners and outers...

    – Lamar Latrell
    Mar 23 at 20:40





    There are the non-shifter Shimano Ultegra BL-R600 levers available. Usually supplied with a full set of cable inners and outers...

    – Lamar Latrell
    Mar 23 at 20:40













    Did you notice the "We’re very sorry but we don’t know when this item will be back in stock" part? Seems that nobody has those any more, they aren't listed on Shimano website and the super SLR compatibility is left to guess.

    – ojs
    Mar 23 at 22:15





    Did you notice the "We’re very sorry but we don’t know when this item will be back in stock" part? Seems that nobody has those any more, they aren't listed on Shimano website and the super SLR compatibility is left to guess.

    – ojs
    Mar 23 at 22:15











    4














    There's no reason that old brake calipers should become less effective. In the 1990s, we knew plenty enough materials engineering to make good brake calipers and there's no reason for calipers to degrade. In contrast, brake pads wear away and brake cables stretch and fray. It sounds very much like those are the components you should be replacing.






    share|improve this answer























    • Indeed, shimano 105 are very sturdy, but mine after 25 years don't work that great. One lever has a crack on top of hoods and moves a bit sideway when pressing. And calipers itself also wear out slowly. Maybe reconditioning them like shown here would help: youtube.com/watch?v=TqbCR83psAg but I am more intersted in new parts at the moment.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 14:41











    • @jareks Cracked? That could be bad - can you post a photo into your original question?

      – Criggie
      Mar 23 at 20:03















    4














    There's no reason that old brake calipers should become less effective. In the 1990s, we knew plenty enough materials engineering to make good brake calipers and there's no reason for calipers to degrade. In contrast, brake pads wear away and brake cables stretch and fray. It sounds very much like those are the components you should be replacing.






    share|improve this answer























    • Indeed, shimano 105 are very sturdy, but mine after 25 years don't work that great. One lever has a crack on top of hoods and moves a bit sideway when pressing. And calipers itself also wear out slowly. Maybe reconditioning them like shown here would help: youtube.com/watch?v=TqbCR83psAg but I am more intersted in new parts at the moment.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 14:41











    • @jareks Cracked? That could be bad - can you post a photo into your original question?

      – Criggie
      Mar 23 at 20:03













    4












    4








    4







    There's no reason that old brake calipers should become less effective. In the 1990s, we knew plenty enough materials engineering to make good brake calipers and there's no reason for calipers to degrade. In contrast, brake pads wear away and brake cables stretch and fray. It sounds very much like those are the components you should be replacing.






    share|improve this answer













    There's no reason that old brake calipers should become less effective. In the 1990s, we knew plenty enough materials engineering to make good brake calipers and there's no reason for calipers to degrade. In contrast, brake pads wear away and brake cables stretch and fray. It sounds very much like those are the components you should be replacing.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered Mar 23 at 12:02









    David RicherbyDavid Richerby

    14.1k33969




    14.1k33969












    • Indeed, shimano 105 are very sturdy, but mine after 25 years don't work that great. One lever has a crack on top of hoods and moves a bit sideway when pressing. And calipers itself also wear out slowly. Maybe reconditioning them like shown here would help: youtube.com/watch?v=TqbCR83psAg but I am more intersted in new parts at the moment.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 14:41











    • @jareks Cracked? That could be bad - can you post a photo into your original question?

      – Criggie
      Mar 23 at 20:03

















    • Indeed, shimano 105 are very sturdy, but mine after 25 years don't work that great. One lever has a crack on top of hoods and moves a bit sideway when pressing. And calipers itself also wear out slowly. Maybe reconditioning them like shown here would help: youtube.com/watch?v=TqbCR83psAg but I am more intersted in new parts at the moment.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 14:41











    • @jareks Cracked? That could be bad - can you post a photo into your original question?

      – Criggie
      Mar 23 at 20:03
















    Indeed, shimano 105 are very sturdy, but mine after 25 years don't work that great. One lever has a crack on top of hoods and moves a bit sideway when pressing. And calipers itself also wear out slowly. Maybe reconditioning them like shown here would help: youtube.com/watch?v=TqbCR83psAg but I am more intersted in new parts at the moment.

    – jareks
    Mar 23 at 14:41





    Indeed, shimano 105 are very sturdy, but mine after 25 years don't work that great. One lever has a crack on top of hoods and moves a bit sideway when pressing. And calipers itself also wear out slowly. Maybe reconditioning them like shown here would help: youtube.com/watch?v=TqbCR83psAg but I am more intersted in new parts at the moment.

    – jareks
    Mar 23 at 14:41













    @jareks Cracked? That could be bad - can you post a photo into your original question?

    – Criggie
    Mar 23 at 20:03





    @jareks Cracked? That could be bad - can you post a photo into your original question?

    – Criggie
    Mar 23 at 20:03











    2














    Answering the bonus question - no. 7 is decades away from 11 speed.



    So if your OLD is 130mm you could throw money at the problem and replace



    • Brake levers with STI Brifters

    • New inner/outer cables

    • Remove downtube shifters and fit two barrel bosses

    • New rear 11 speed derailleur

    • New 11 speed cassette

    • New 11 speed chain

    • New 11 speed freehub, which probably means a new 11 speed compatible wheel hub.

    About this time add up the costs and see its an affordable number. I doubt its a small number, so unless you have some ebay wins or some spare parts or a complete donor bike, it going to be expensive and therefore a bad spend.



    On the plus side, if you do this there's a fair chance the front derailleur and chainrings will work okay in an 11 speed environment. Or you could leave the downtube shifter on the left for the front mech and only use the STI brifter on the right hand. May benefit from squeezing the front mech's cage slighty to account for the narrower chain.






    share|improve this answer

























    • Road 7-speed was 126mm. Mixing narrow chain with old double chainrings is a very bad idea, because the chain can jam between the rings.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 11:09






    • 1





      Thanks for your help! Indeed my bike was 126mm at the rear, but I have already cold-set it to 130mm and it is running new pair of wheels.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 13:49
















    2














    Answering the bonus question - no. 7 is decades away from 11 speed.



    So if your OLD is 130mm you could throw money at the problem and replace



    • Brake levers with STI Brifters

    • New inner/outer cables

    • Remove downtube shifters and fit two barrel bosses

    • New rear 11 speed derailleur

    • New 11 speed cassette

    • New 11 speed chain

    • New 11 speed freehub, which probably means a new 11 speed compatible wheel hub.

    About this time add up the costs and see its an affordable number. I doubt its a small number, so unless you have some ebay wins or some spare parts or a complete donor bike, it going to be expensive and therefore a bad spend.



    On the plus side, if you do this there's a fair chance the front derailleur and chainrings will work okay in an 11 speed environment. Or you could leave the downtube shifter on the left for the front mech and only use the STI brifter on the right hand. May benefit from squeezing the front mech's cage slighty to account for the narrower chain.






    share|improve this answer

























    • Road 7-speed was 126mm. Mixing narrow chain with old double chainrings is a very bad idea, because the chain can jam between the rings.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 11:09






    • 1





      Thanks for your help! Indeed my bike was 126mm at the rear, but I have already cold-set it to 130mm and it is running new pair of wheels.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 13:49














    2












    2








    2







    Answering the bonus question - no. 7 is decades away from 11 speed.



    So if your OLD is 130mm you could throw money at the problem and replace



    • Brake levers with STI Brifters

    • New inner/outer cables

    • Remove downtube shifters and fit two barrel bosses

    • New rear 11 speed derailleur

    • New 11 speed cassette

    • New 11 speed chain

    • New 11 speed freehub, which probably means a new 11 speed compatible wheel hub.

    About this time add up the costs and see its an affordable number. I doubt its a small number, so unless you have some ebay wins or some spare parts or a complete donor bike, it going to be expensive and therefore a bad spend.



    On the plus side, if you do this there's a fair chance the front derailleur and chainrings will work okay in an 11 speed environment. Or you could leave the downtube shifter on the left for the front mech and only use the STI brifter on the right hand. May benefit from squeezing the front mech's cage slighty to account for the narrower chain.






    share|improve this answer















    Answering the bonus question - no. 7 is decades away from 11 speed.



    So if your OLD is 130mm you could throw money at the problem and replace



    • Brake levers with STI Brifters

    • New inner/outer cables

    • Remove downtube shifters and fit two barrel bosses

    • New rear 11 speed derailleur

    • New 11 speed cassette

    • New 11 speed chain

    • New 11 speed freehub, which probably means a new 11 speed compatible wheel hub.

    About this time add up the costs and see its an affordable number. I doubt its a small number, so unless you have some ebay wins or some spare parts or a complete donor bike, it going to be expensive and therefore a bad spend.



    On the plus side, if you do this there's a fair chance the front derailleur and chainrings will work okay in an 11 speed environment. Or you could leave the downtube shifter on the left for the front mech and only use the STI brifter on the right hand. May benefit from squeezing the front mech's cage slighty to account for the narrower chain.







    share|improve this answer














    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer








    edited Mar 27 at 19:17

























    answered Mar 23 at 10:18









    CriggieCriggie

    45.6k577157




    45.6k577157












    • Road 7-speed was 126mm. Mixing narrow chain with old double chainrings is a very bad idea, because the chain can jam between the rings.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 11:09






    • 1





      Thanks for your help! Indeed my bike was 126mm at the rear, but I have already cold-set it to 130mm and it is running new pair of wheels.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 13:49


















    • Road 7-speed was 126mm. Mixing narrow chain with old double chainrings is a very bad idea, because the chain can jam between the rings.

      – ojs
      Mar 23 at 11:09






    • 1





      Thanks for your help! Indeed my bike was 126mm at the rear, but I have already cold-set it to 130mm and it is running new pair of wheels.

      – jareks
      Mar 23 at 13:49

















    Road 7-speed was 126mm. Mixing narrow chain with old double chainrings is a very bad idea, because the chain can jam between the rings.

    – ojs
    Mar 23 at 11:09





    Road 7-speed was 126mm. Mixing narrow chain with old double chainrings is a very bad idea, because the chain can jam between the rings.

    – ojs
    Mar 23 at 11:09




    1




    1





    Thanks for your help! Indeed my bike was 126mm at the rear, but I have already cold-set it to 130mm and it is running new pair of wheels.

    – jareks
    Mar 23 at 13:49






    Thanks for your help! Indeed my bike was 126mm at the rear, but I have already cold-set it to 130mm and it is running new pair of wheels.

    – jareks
    Mar 23 at 13:49












    0














    Save your money, clean your shifters, replace your cables and housings and replace your brake pads with Koolstops.






    share|improve this answer



























      0














      Save your money, clean your shifters, replace your cables and housings and replace your brake pads with Koolstops.






      share|improve this answer

























        0












        0








        0







        Save your money, clean your shifters, replace your cables and housings and replace your brake pads with Koolstops.






        share|improve this answer













        Save your money, clean your shifters, replace your cables and housings and replace your brake pads with Koolstops.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered Mar 27 at 15:57









        Mike the BikeMike the Bike

        312




        312



























            draft saved

            draft discarded
















































            Thanks for contributing an answer to Bicycles Stack Exchange!


            • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

            But avoid


            • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

            • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.

            To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




            draft saved


            draft discarded














            StackExchange.ready(
            function ()
            StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fbicycles.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f59915%2fnew-brakes-for-90s-road-bike%23new-answer', 'question_page');

            );

            Post as a guest















            Required, but never shown





















































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown

































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown







            Popular posts from this blog

            Færeyskur hestur Heimild | Tengill | Tilvísanir | LeiðsagnarvalRossið - síða um færeyska hrossið á færeyskuGott ár hjá færeyska hestinum

            He _____ here since 1970 . Answer needed [closed]What does “since he was so high” mean?Meaning of “catch birds for”?How do I ensure “since” takes the meaning I want?“Who cares here” meaningWhat does “right round toward” mean?the time tense (had now been detected)What does the phrase “ring around the roses” mean here?Correct usage of “visited upon”Meaning of “foiled rail sabotage bid”It was the third time I had gone to Rome or It is the third time I had been to Rome

            Slayer Innehåll Historia | Stil, komposition och lyrik | Bandets betydelse och framgångar | Sidoprojekt och samarbeten | Kontroverser | Medlemmar | Utmärkelser och nomineringar | Turnéer och festivaler | Diskografi | Referenser | Externa länkar | Navigeringsmenywww.slayer.net”Metal Massacre vol. 1””Metal Massacre vol. 3””Metal Massacre Volume III””Show No Mercy””Haunting the Chapel””Live Undead””Hell Awaits””Reign in Blood””Reign in Blood””Gold & Platinum – Reign in Blood””Golden Gods Awards Winners”originalet”Kerrang! Hall Of Fame””Slayer Looks Back On 37-Year Career In New Video Series: Part Two””South of Heaven””Gold & Platinum – South of Heaven””Seasons in the Abyss””Gold & Platinum - Seasons in the Abyss””Divine Intervention””Divine Intervention - Release group by Slayer””Gold & Platinum - Divine Intervention””Live Intrusion””Undisputed Attitude””Abolish Government/Superficial Love””Release “Slatanic Slaughter: A Tribute to Slayer” by Various Artists””Diabolus in Musica””Soundtrack to the Apocalypse””God Hates Us All””Systematic - Relationships””War at the Warfield””Gold & Platinum - War at the Warfield””Soundtrack to the Apocalypse””Gold & Platinum - Still Reigning””Metallica, Slayer, Iron Mauden Among Winners At Metal Hammer Awards””Eternal Pyre””Eternal Pyre - Slayer release group””Eternal Pyre””Metal Storm Awards 2006””Kerrang! Hall Of Fame””Slayer Wins 'Best Metal' Grammy Award””Slayer Guitarist Jeff Hanneman Dies””Bullet-For My Valentine booed at Metal Hammer Golden Gods Awards””Unholy Aliance””The End Of Slayer?””Slayer: We Could Thrash Out Two More Albums If We're Fast Enough...””'The Unholy Alliance: Chapter III' UK Dates Added”originalet”Megadeth And Slayer To Co-Headline 'Canadian Carnage' Trek”originalet”World Painted Blood””Release “World Painted Blood” by Slayer””Metallica Heading To Cinemas””Slayer, Megadeth To Join Forces For 'European Carnage' Tour - Dec. 18, 2010”originalet”Slayer's Hanneman Contracts Acute Infection; Band To Bring In Guest Guitarist””Cannibal Corpse's Pat O'Brien Will Step In As Slayer's Guest Guitarist”originalet”Slayer’s Jeff Hanneman Dead at 49””Dave Lombardo Says He Made Only $67,000 In 2011 While Touring With Slayer””Slayer: We Do Not Agree With Dave Lombardo's Substance Or Timeline Of Events””Slayer Welcomes Drummer Paul Bostaph Back To The Fold””Slayer Hope to Unveil Never-Before-Heard Jeff Hanneman Material on Next Album””Slayer Debut New Song 'Implode' During Surprise Golden Gods Appearance””Release group Repentless by Slayer””Repentless - Slayer - Credits””Slayer””Metal Storm Awards 2015””Slayer - to release comic book "Repentless #1"””Slayer To Release 'Repentless' 6.66" Vinyl Box Set””BREAKING NEWS: Slayer Announce Farewell Tour””Slayer Recruit Lamb of God, Anthrax, Behemoth + Testament for Final Tour””Slayer lägger ner efter 37 år””Slayer Announces Second North American Leg Of 'Final' Tour””Final World Tour””Slayer Announces Final European Tour With Lamb of God, Anthrax And Obituary””Slayer To Tour Europe With Lamb of God, Anthrax And Obituary””Slayer To Play 'Last French Show Ever' At Next Year's Hellfst””Slayer's Final World Tour Will Extend Into 2019””Death Angel's Rob Cavestany On Slayer's 'Farewell' Tour: 'Some Of Us Could See This Coming'””Testament Has No Plans To Retire Anytime Soon, Says Chuck Billy””Anthrax's Scott Ian On Slayer's 'Farewell' Tour Plans: 'I Was Surprised And I Wasn't Surprised'””Slayer””Slayer's Morbid Schlock””Review/Rock; For Slayer, the Mania Is the Message””Slayer - Biography””Slayer - Reign In Blood”originalet”Dave Lombardo””An exclusive oral history of Slayer”originalet”Exclusive! Interview With Slayer Guitarist Jeff Hanneman”originalet”Thinking Out Loud: Slayer's Kerry King on hair metal, Satan and being polite””Slayer Lyrics””Slayer - Biography””Most influential artists for extreme metal music””Slayer - Reign in Blood””Slayer guitarist Jeff Hanneman dies aged 49””Slatanic Slaughter: A Tribute to Slayer””Gateway to Hell: A Tribute to Slayer””Covered In Blood””Slayer: The Origins of Thrash in San Francisco, CA.””Why They Rule - #6 Slayer”originalet”Guitar World's 100 Greatest Heavy Metal Guitarists Of All Time”originalet”The fans have spoken: Slayer comes out on top in readers' polls”originalet”Tribute to Jeff Hanneman (1964-2013)””Lamb Of God Frontman: We Sound Like A Slayer Rip-Off””BEHEMOTH Frontman Pays Tribute To SLAYER's JEFF HANNEMAN””Slayer, Hatebreed Doing Double Duty On This Year's Ozzfest””System of a Down””Lacuna Coil’s Andrea Ferro Talks Influences, Skateboarding, Band Origins + More””Slayer - Reign in Blood””Into The Lungs of Hell””Slayer rules - en utställning om fans””Slayer and Their Fans Slashed Through a No-Holds-Barred Night at Gas Monkey””Home””Slayer””Gold & Platinum - The Big 4 Live from Sofia, Bulgaria””Exclusive! Interview With Slayer Guitarist Kerry King””2008-02-23: Wiltern, Los Angeles, CA, USA””Slayer's Kerry King To Perform With Megadeth Tonight! - Oct. 21, 2010”originalet”Dave Lombardo - Biography”Slayer Case DismissedArkiveradUltimate Classic Rock: Slayer guitarist Jeff Hanneman dead at 49.”Slayer: "We could never do any thing like Some Kind Of Monster..."””Cannibal Corpse'S Pat O'Brien Will Step In As Slayer'S Guest Guitarist | The Official Slayer Site”originalet”Slayer Wins 'Best Metal' Grammy Award””Slayer Guitarist Jeff Hanneman Dies””Kerrang! Awards 2006 Blog: Kerrang! Hall Of Fame””Kerrang! Awards 2013: Kerrang! Legend”originalet”Metallica, Slayer, Iron Maien Among Winners At Metal Hammer Awards””Metal Hammer Golden Gods Awards””Bullet For My Valentine Booed At Metal Hammer Golden Gods Awards””Metal Storm Awards 2006””Metal Storm Awards 2015””Slayer's Concert History””Slayer - Relationships””Slayer - Releases”Slayers officiella webbplatsSlayer på MusicBrainzOfficiell webbplatsSlayerSlayerr1373445760000 0001 1540 47353068615-5086262726cb13906545x(data)6033143kn20030215029