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Probably overheated black color SMD pads
Soldering 0.5mm pitch ICs using stencil and reflow ovenBest way to hand solder pads with castelations to wiresWhat are those black spots in these lead-free solder joints?Desoldering a TO-220 MOSFET from a plated through-hole board with SMD complicationsWhich flux type to use for SMD hobbyist (home-made) PCB?D1 mini - pin hole / track repairHow to check if the pin headers are soldered well?Blind vias pitfalls when hand soldering partsSolder heat dissipationHow to fix incorrect routing to SMD transistor terminals
$begingroup$
Can you give me an advice what to do with probably overheated SMD soldering pads on the board?
The photo is of a computer bus card, where there are 4 SMD 0603 positions labeled R1 - R4. They are used for configuring the card frequency from 20 MHz to 40 MHz.
These positions should be bridged by 0 ohm resistors.
I wanted to reconnect the R2 and R4 positions. I used a soldering station with iron and controlled temperature and electrical 1mm thin solder. I set the temperature to 350 degrees Celsius.
I didn't have SMD resistors, so I used just thin wire as I have seen in a web page.
However it looks like I overheated the pads - they are a black color and I can't wet them any more with solder.
I know I should have better solder with hot air soldering unit and solder paste.
I found the same problem described in this forum thread http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=76132
The guy there wanted to increase frequency from 33 MHZ to 40 MHZ on the card but he destroyed the pad like me.
Then he found the right pins for R1 pads on ICS511 chip and reconnected the pins 6 and 7.
I say ok, 33MHz should be enough.
Now can you give me an advice how to solder two pins together ? Is it enough to use only small amount of solder or should i solder thin wire to the pins ?
What about using the electrical conductive wire glue ?
Or electrical conductive pen is enough ?
soldering surface-mount
New contributor
$endgroup$
|
show 2 more comments
$begingroup$
Can you give me an advice what to do with probably overheated SMD soldering pads on the board?
The photo is of a computer bus card, where there are 4 SMD 0603 positions labeled R1 - R4. They are used for configuring the card frequency from 20 MHz to 40 MHz.
These positions should be bridged by 0 ohm resistors.
I wanted to reconnect the R2 and R4 positions. I used a soldering station with iron and controlled temperature and electrical 1mm thin solder. I set the temperature to 350 degrees Celsius.
I didn't have SMD resistors, so I used just thin wire as I have seen in a web page.
However it looks like I overheated the pads - they are a black color and I can't wet them any more with solder.
I know I should have better solder with hot air soldering unit and solder paste.
I found the same problem described in this forum thread http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=76132
The guy there wanted to increase frequency from 33 MHZ to 40 MHZ on the card but he destroyed the pad like me.
Then he found the right pins for R1 pads on ICS511 chip and reconnected the pins 6 and 7.
I say ok, 33MHz should be enough.
Now can you give me an advice how to solder two pins together ? Is it enough to use only small amount of solder or should i solder thin wire to the pins ?
What about using the electrical conductive wire glue ?
Or electrical conductive pen is enough ?
soldering surface-mount
New contributor
$endgroup$
7
$begingroup$
It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
$endgroup$
– JRE
Mar 17 at 11:38
$begingroup$
Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
$endgroup$
– Mahendra Gunawardena
Mar 17 at 11:49
$begingroup$
Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
$endgroup$
– immibis
Mar 17 at 20:56
3
$begingroup$
What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
$endgroup$
– Spehro Pefhany
Mar 17 at 21:07
6
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations forR1
andR2
have small parts of the1
and2
missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:07
|
show 2 more comments
$begingroup$
Can you give me an advice what to do with probably overheated SMD soldering pads on the board?
The photo is of a computer bus card, where there are 4 SMD 0603 positions labeled R1 - R4. They are used for configuring the card frequency from 20 MHz to 40 MHz.
These positions should be bridged by 0 ohm resistors.
I wanted to reconnect the R2 and R4 positions. I used a soldering station with iron and controlled temperature and electrical 1mm thin solder. I set the temperature to 350 degrees Celsius.
I didn't have SMD resistors, so I used just thin wire as I have seen in a web page.
However it looks like I overheated the pads - they are a black color and I can't wet them any more with solder.
I know I should have better solder with hot air soldering unit and solder paste.
I found the same problem described in this forum thread http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=76132
The guy there wanted to increase frequency from 33 MHZ to 40 MHZ on the card but he destroyed the pad like me.
Then he found the right pins for R1 pads on ICS511 chip and reconnected the pins 6 and 7.
I say ok, 33MHz should be enough.
Now can you give me an advice how to solder two pins together ? Is it enough to use only small amount of solder or should i solder thin wire to the pins ?
What about using the electrical conductive wire glue ?
Or electrical conductive pen is enough ?
soldering surface-mount
New contributor
$endgroup$
Can you give me an advice what to do with probably overheated SMD soldering pads on the board?
The photo is of a computer bus card, where there are 4 SMD 0603 positions labeled R1 - R4. They are used for configuring the card frequency from 20 MHz to 40 MHz.
These positions should be bridged by 0 ohm resistors.
I wanted to reconnect the R2 and R4 positions. I used a soldering station with iron and controlled temperature and electrical 1mm thin solder. I set the temperature to 350 degrees Celsius.
I didn't have SMD resistors, so I used just thin wire as I have seen in a web page.
However it looks like I overheated the pads - they are a black color and I can't wet them any more with solder.
I know I should have better solder with hot air soldering unit and solder paste.
I found the same problem described in this forum thread http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=76132
The guy there wanted to increase frequency from 33 MHZ to 40 MHZ on the card but he destroyed the pad like me.
Then he found the right pins for R1 pads on ICS511 chip and reconnected the pins 6 and 7.
I say ok, 33MHz should be enough.
Now can you give me an advice how to solder two pins together ? Is it enough to use only small amount of solder or should i solder thin wire to the pins ?
What about using the electrical conductive wire glue ?
Or electrical conductive pen is enough ?
soldering surface-mount
soldering surface-mount
New contributor
New contributor
edited yesterday
Dave Tweed♦
121k9152261
121k9152261
New contributor
asked Mar 17 at 11:17
pjaro77pjaro77
312
312
New contributor
New contributor
7
$begingroup$
It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
$endgroup$
– JRE
Mar 17 at 11:38
$begingroup$
Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
$endgroup$
– Mahendra Gunawardena
Mar 17 at 11:49
$begingroup$
Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
$endgroup$
– immibis
Mar 17 at 20:56
3
$begingroup$
What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
$endgroup$
– Spehro Pefhany
Mar 17 at 21:07
6
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations forR1
andR2
have small parts of the1
and2
missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:07
|
show 2 more comments
7
$begingroup$
It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
$endgroup$
– JRE
Mar 17 at 11:38
$begingroup$
Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
$endgroup$
– Mahendra Gunawardena
Mar 17 at 11:49
$begingroup$
Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
$endgroup$
– immibis
Mar 17 at 20:56
3
$begingroup$
What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
$endgroup$
– Spehro Pefhany
Mar 17 at 21:07
6
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations forR1
andR2
have small parts of the1
and2
missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:07
7
7
$begingroup$
It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
$endgroup$
– JRE
Mar 17 at 11:38
$begingroup$
It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
$endgroup$
– JRE
Mar 17 at 11:38
$begingroup$
Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
$endgroup$
– Mahendra Gunawardena
Mar 17 at 11:49
$begingroup$
Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
$endgroup$
– Mahendra Gunawardena
Mar 17 at 11:49
$begingroup$
Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
$endgroup$
– immibis
Mar 17 at 20:56
$begingroup$
Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
$endgroup$
– immibis
Mar 17 at 20:56
3
3
$begingroup$
What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
$endgroup$
– Spehro Pefhany
Mar 17 at 21:07
$begingroup$
What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
$endgroup$
– Spehro Pefhany
Mar 17 at 21:07
6
6
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations for
R1
and R2
have small parts of the 1
and 2
missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:07
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations for
R1
and R2
have small parts of the 1
and 2
missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:07
|
show 2 more comments
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
It appears from the picture that the pads have been completely destroyed and come off the board. The dark color that you see is the underlying raw circuit board material.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 11:56
add a comment |
$begingroup$
As described by Michael Karas in his answer, you have overheated the pads, and it seems that some pads and some tracks have come off and are now missing e.g. the track from pin 4 of the ICS511 PLL Clock Multiplier IC to positions R3 and R4 appears to be missing.
Therefore you now need to reverse-engineer that part of the circuit, looking for where the missing tracks should be, to decide where you can connect equivalent thin wire (e.g. 30 AWG wire wrap wire or even thinner "magnet wire") to replace those missing tracks and also to simulate the connections of the 0 Ohm resistors which you wanted.
You might only need to connect a few links across ICS511 pins, but you need to work that out looking at the PCB tracks e.g. from your photo, it isn't obvious where the lower R2 pad should be connected, as it seems to go under the ICS511. That IC has only 2 inputs, so with some care and magnification, you should be able to reverse engineer that part of the design, to then decide on your repair strategy.
However, without better soldering equipment (and perhaps more experience / help etc.) there is a risk that you could make things worse, if you carry on trying to repair that board.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 21:59
1
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridgingR1
pulls pin 6 high, bridgingR2
pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridgingR3
pulls pin 4 high and bridgingR4
pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fittingR2
andR4
as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads ofR2
andR4
.
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:18
1
$begingroup$
... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12
), instead of trying to use the missing component pads forR1
-R4
and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:23
$begingroup$
I found today, that connection pins 6 and 7 together works as R1 pads connection. Configuration with only R1 will set 33MHz, it is enough for me. Look to my answer below.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
add a comment |
$begingroup$
They do sell surface mount pad/trace repair kits that you could use which I've used quite successfully. You would have to carefully cut the remnants of what is existing there and then follow the instructions to activate the adhesive on the new pads after laying down smoothly (usually with the use of a flat round iron), then carefully solder the existing traces and new pads together. If you have unused pads elsewhere that don't serve a purpose, you might be able to purposely lift those with a hot air nozzle and then re-lay them in that area, but I'd recommend the pad repair kid first before anything. Again, like the others have said - you could end up making things worse unless you practice a bunch on some sample boards.
New contributor
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Soldering such pads with an iron is perfectly fine, the root cause of your problem is that you've set the temperature too high. Lead-based solder which should be used for such kind of rework melts between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F), and even lead-free solder melts above 220 °C. 350 °C is only useful when soldering large parts or pads connected to ground planes without thermal relief.
Another factor contributing to damage is the soldering time. Rather than heating the pads and then trying to put a resistor or a piece of wire in position, you should put everything in place and then heat up to melt the solder.
Finally, avoid soldering long wires (or big parts) to small pads. The mechanical stress from a long wire may be enough to tear a pad off the board, even if you didn't overheat it.
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Thank you for your advice about soldering temperatures.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
add a comment |
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4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
It appears from the picture that the pads have been completely destroyed and come off the board. The dark color that you see is the underlying raw circuit board material.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 11:56
add a comment |
$begingroup$
It appears from the picture that the pads have been completely destroyed and come off the board. The dark color that you see is the underlying raw circuit board material.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 11:56
add a comment |
$begingroup$
It appears from the picture that the pads have been completely destroyed and come off the board. The dark color that you see is the underlying raw circuit board material.
$endgroup$
It appears from the picture that the pads have been completely destroyed and come off the board. The dark color that you see is the underlying raw circuit board material.
answered Mar 17 at 11:27
Michael KarasMichael Karas
44.8k348104
44.8k348104
$begingroup$
I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 11:56
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 11:56
$begingroup$
I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 11:56
$begingroup$
I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 11:56
add a comment |
$begingroup$
As described by Michael Karas in his answer, you have overheated the pads, and it seems that some pads and some tracks have come off and are now missing e.g. the track from pin 4 of the ICS511 PLL Clock Multiplier IC to positions R3 and R4 appears to be missing.
Therefore you now need to reverse-engineer that part of the circuit, looking for where the missing tracks should be, to decide where you can connect equivalent thin wire (e.g. 30 AWG wire wrap wire or even thinner "magnet wire") to replace those missing tracks and also to simulate the connections of the 0 Ohm resistors which you wanted.
You might only need to connect a few links across ICS511 pins, but you need to work that out looking at the PCB tracks e.g. from your photo, it isn't obvious where the lower R2 pad should be connected, as it seems to go under the ICS511. That IC has only 2 inputs, so with some care and magnification, you should be able to reverse engineer that part of the design, to then decide on your repair strategy.
However, without better soldering equipment (and perhaps more experience / help etc.) there is a risk that you could make things worse, if you carry on trying to repair that board.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 21:59
1
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridgingR1
pulls pin 6 high, bridgingR2
pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridgingR3
pulls pin 4 high and bridgingR4
pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fittingR2
andR4
as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads ofR2
andR4
.
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:18
1
$begingroup$
... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12
), instead of trying to use the missing component pads forR1
-R4
and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:23
$begingroup$
I found today, that connection pins 6 and 7 together works as R1 pads connection. Configuration with only R1 will set 33MHz, it is enough for me. Look to my answer below.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
add a comment |
$begingroup$
As described by Michael Karas in his answer, you have overheated the pads, and it seems that some pads and some tracks have come off and are now missing e.g. the track from pin 4 of the ICS511 PLL Clock Multiplier IC to positions R3 and R4 appears to be missing.
Therefore you now need to reverse-engineer that part of the circuit, looking for where the missing tracks should be, to decide where you can connect equivalent thin wire (e.g. 30 AWG wire wrap wire or even thinner "magnet wire") to replace those missing tracks and also to simulate the connections of the 0 Ohm resistors which you wanted.
You might only need to connect a few links across ICS511 pins, but you need to work that out looking at the PCB tracks e.g. from your photo, it isn't obvious where the lower R2 pad should be connected, as it seems to go under the ICS511. That IC has only 2 inputs, so with some care and magnification, you should be able to reverse engineer that part of the design, to then decide on your repair strategy.
However, without better soldering equipment (and perhaps more experience / help etc.) there is a risk that you could make things worse, if you carry on trying to repair that board.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 21:59
1
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridgingR1
pulls pin 6 high, bridgingR2
pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridgingR3
pulls pin 4 high and bridgingR4
pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fittingR2
andR4
as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads ofR2
andR4
.
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:18
1
$begingroup$
... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12
), instead of trying to use the missing component pads forR1
-R4
and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:23
$begingroup$
I found today, that connection pins 6 and 7 together works as R1 pads connection. Configuration with only R1 will set 33MHz, it is enough for me. Look to my answer below.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
add a comment |
$begingroup$
As described by Michael Karas in his answer, you have overheated the pads, and it seems that some pads and some tracks have come off and are now missing e.g. the track from pin 4 of the ICS511 PLL Clock Multiplier IC to positions R3 and R4 appears to be missing.
Therefore you now need to reverse-engineer that part of the circuit, looking for where the missing tracks should be, to decide where you can connect equivalent thin wire (e.g. 30 AWG wire wrap wire or even thinner "magnet wire") to replace those missing tracks and also to simulate the connections of the 0 Ohm resistors which you wanted.
You might only need to connect a few links across ICS511 pins, but you need to work that out looking at the PCB tracks e.g. from your photo, it isn't obvious where the lower R2 pad should be connected, as it seems to go under the ICS511. That IC has only 2 inputs, so with some care and magnification, you should be able to reverse engineer that part of the design, to then decide on your repair strategy.
However, without better soldering equipment (and perhaps more experience / help etc.) there is a risk that you could make things worse, if you carry on trying to repair that board.
$endgroup$
As described by Michael Karas in his answer, you have overheated the pads, and it seems that some pads and some tracks have come off and are now missing e.g. the track from pin 4 of the ICS511 PLL Clock Multiplier IC to positions R3 and R4 appears to be missing.
Therefore you now need to reverse-engineer that part of the circuit, looking for where the missing tracks should be, to decide where you can connect equivalent thin wire (e.g. 30 AWG wire wrap wire or even thinner "magnet wire") to replace those missing tracks and also to simulate the connections of the 0 Ohm resistors which you wanted.
You might only need to connect a few links across ICS511 pins, but you need to work that out looking at the PCB tracks e.g. from your photo, it isn't obvious where the lower R2 pad should be connected, as it seems to go under the ICS511. That IC has only 2 inputs, so with some care and magnification, you should be able to reverse engineer that part of the design, to then decide on your repair strategy.
However, without better soldering equipment (and perhaps more experience / help etc.) there is a risk that you could make things worse, if you carry on trying to repair that board.
edited Mar 17 at 12:07
answered Mar 17 at 11:59
SamGibsonSamGibson
11.5k41739
11.5k41739
$begingroup$
Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 21:59
1
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridgingR1
pulls pin 6 high, bridgingR2
pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridgingR3
pulls pin 4 high and bridgingR4
pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fittingR2
andR4
as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads ofR2
andR4
.
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:18
1
$begingroup$
... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12
), instead of trying to use the missing component pads forR1
-R4
and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:23
$begingroup$
I found today, that connection pins 6 and 7 together works as R1 pads connection. Configuration with only R1 will set 33MHz, it is enough for me. Look to my answer below.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 21:59
1
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridgingR1
pulls pin 6 high, bridgingR2
pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridgingR3
pulls pin 4 high and bridgingR4
pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fittingR2
andR4
as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads ofR2
andR4
.
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:18
1
$begingroup$
... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12
), instead of trying to use the missing component pads forR1
-R4
and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:23
$begingroup$
I found today, that connection pins 6 and 7 together works as R1 pads connection. Configuration with only R1 will set 33MHz, it is enough for me. Look to my answer below.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
$begingroup$
Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 21:59
$begingroup$
Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
Mar 17 at 21:59
1
1
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridging
R1
pulls pin 6 high, bridging R2
pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridging R3
pulls pin 4 high and bridging R4
pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fitting R2
and R4
as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads of R2
and R4
.$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:18
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridging
R1
pulls pin 6 high, bridging R2
pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridging R3
pulls pin 4 high and bridging R4
pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fitting R2
and R4
as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads of R2
and R4
.$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:18
1
1
$begingroup$
... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (
U12
), instead of trying to use the missing component pads for R1
- R4
and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:23
$begingroup$
... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (
U12
), instead of trying to use the missing component pads for R1
- R4
and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:23
$begingroup$
I found today, that connection pins 6 and 7 together works as R1 pads connection. Configuration with only R1 will set 33MHz, it is enough for me. Look to my answer below.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
$begingroup$
I found today, that connection pins 6 and 7 together works as R1 pads connection. Configuration with only R1 will set 33MHz, it is enough for me. Look to my answer below.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
add a comment |
$begingroup$
They do sell surface mount pad/trace repair kits that you could use which I've used quite successfully. You would have to carefully cut the remnants of what is existing there and then follow the instructions to activate the adhesive on the new pads after laying down smoothly (usually with the use of a flat round iron), then carefully solder the existing traces and new pads together. If you have unused pads elsewhere that don't serve a purpose, you might be able to purposely lift those with a hot air nozzle and then re-lay them in that area, but I'd recommend the pad repair kid first before anything. Again, like the others have said - you could end up making things worse unless you practice a bunch on some sample boards.
New contributor
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
They do sell surface mount pad/trace repair kits that you could use which I've used quite successfully. You would have to carefully cut the remnants of what is existing there and then follow the instructions to activate the adhesive on the new pads after laying down smoothly (usually with the use of a flat round iron), then carefully solder the existing traces and new pads together. If you have unused pads elsewhere that don't serve a purpose, you might be able to purposely lift those with a hot air nozzle and then re-lay them in that area, but I'd recommend the pad repair kid first before anything. Again, like the others have said - you could end up making things worse unless you practice a bunch on some sample boards.
New contributor
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
They do sell surface mount pad/trace repair kits that you could use which I've used quite successfully. You would have to carefully cut the remnants of what is existing there and then follow the instructions to activate the adhesive on the new pads after laying down smoothly (usually with the use of a flat round iron), then carefully solder the existing traces and new pads together. If you have unused pads elsewhere that don't serve a purpose, you might be able to purposely lift those with a hot air nozzle and then re-lay them in that area, but I'd recommend the pad repair kid first before anything. Again, like the others have said - you could end up making things worse unless you practice a bunch on some sample boards.
New contributor
$endgroup$
They do sell surface mount pad/trace repair kits that you could use which I've used quite successfully. You would have to carefully cut the remnants of what is existing there and then follow the instructions to activate the adhesive on the new pads after laying down smoothly (usually with the use of a flat round iron), then carefully solder the existing traces and new pads together. If you have unused pads elsewhere that don't serve a purpose, you might be able to purposely lift those with a hot air nozzle and then re-lay them in that area, but I'd recommend the pad repair kid first before anything. Again, like the others have said - you could end up making things worse unless you practice a bunch on some sample boards.
New contributor
New contributor
answered Mar 17 at 20:04
thenapolitanthenapolitan
212
212
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Soldering such pads with an iron is perfectly fine, the root cause of your problem is that you've set the temperature too high. Lead-based solder which should be used for such kind of rework melts between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F), and even lead-free solder melts above 220 °C. 350 °C is only useful when soldering large parts or pads connected to ground planes without thermal relief.
Another factor contributing to damage is the soldering time. Rather than heating the pads and then trying to put a resistor or a piece of wire in position, you should put everything in place and then heat up to melt the solder.
Finally, avoid soldering long wires (or big parts) to small pads. The mechanical stress from a long wire may be enough to tear a pad off the board, even if you didn't overheat it.
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Thank you for your advice about soldering temperatures.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Soldering such pads with an iron is perfectly fine, the root cause of your problem is that you've set the temperature too high. Lead-based solder which should be used for such kind of rework melts between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F), and even lead-free solder melts above 220 °C. 350 °C is only useful when soldering large parts or pads connected to ground planes without thermal relief.
Another factor contributing to damage is the soldering time. Rather than heating the pads and then trying to put a resistor or a piece of wire in position, you should put everything in place and then heat up to melt the solder.
Finally, avoid soldering long wires (or big parts) to small pads. The mechanical stress from a long wire may be enough to tear a pad off the board, even if you didn't overheat it.
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Thank you for your advice about soldering temperatures.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Soldering such pads with an iron is perfectly fine, the root cause of your problem is that you've set the temperature too high. Lead-based solder which should be used for such kind of rework melts between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F), and even lead-free solder melts above 220 °C. 350 °C is only useful when soldering large parts or pads connected to ground planes without thermal relief.
Another factor contributing to damage is the soldering time. Rather than heating the pads and then trying to put a resistor or a piece of wire in position, you should put everything in place and then heat up to melt the solder.
Finally, avoid soldering long wires (or big parts) to small pads. The mechanical stress from a long wire may be enough to tear a pad off the board, even if you didn't overheat it.
$endgroup$
Soldering such pads with an iron is perfectly fine, the root cause of your problem is that you've set the temperature too high. Lead-based solder which should be used for such kind of rework melts between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F), and even lead-free solder melts above 220 °C. 350 °C is only useful when soldering large parts or pads connected to ground planes without thermal relief.
Another factor contributing to damage is the soldering time. Rather than heating the pads and then trying to put a resistor or a piece of wire in position, you should put everything in place and then heat up to melt the solder.
Finally, avoid soldering long wires (or big parts) to small pads. The mechanical stress from a long wire may be enough to tear a pad off the board, even if you didn't overheat it.
answered 2 days ago
Dmitry GrigoryevDmitry Grigoryev
18.1k22775
18.1k22775
1
$begingroup$
Thank you for your advice about soldering temperatures.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
add a comment |
1
$begingroup$
Thank you for your advice about soldering temperatures.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
1
1
$begingroup$
Thank you for your advice about soldering temperatures.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
$begingroup$
Thank you for your advice about soldering temperatures.
$endgroup$
– pjaro77
yesterday
add a comment |
pjaro77 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
pjaro77 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
pjaro77 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
pjaro77 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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7
$begingroup$
It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
$endgroup$
– JRE
Mar 17 at 11:38
$begingroup$
Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
$endgroup$
– Mahendra Gunawardena
Mar 17 at 11:49
$begingroup$
Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
$endgroup$
– immibis
Mar 17 at 20:56
3
$begingroup$
What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
$endgroup$
– Spehro Pefhany
Mar 17 at 21:07
6
$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations for
R1
andR2
have small parts of the1
and2
missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.$endgroup$
– SamGibson
Mar 17 at 22:07