resoldering copper waste pipe
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I've soldered new copper pipe but have never resoldered it.
A shiny band of silver solder remains on the end of the copper pipe after an elbow has been removed from it. Does that shiny band have to be sandpapered away, to get down to bare copper, before flux can be applied and a new elbow installed?
This is 1-1/2" copper drain pipe (DWV), if it makes any difference.
copper soldering
asked May 8 at 13:20
mrblintmrblint
11914
add a comment |
I've soldered new copper pipe but have never resoldered it.
A shiny band of silver solder remains on the end of the copper pipe after an elbow has been removed from it. Does that shiny band have to be sandpapered away, to get down to bare copper, before flux can be applied and a new elbow installed?
This is 1-1/2" copper drain pipe (DWV), if it makes any difference.
copper soldering
asked May 8 at 13:20
mrblintmrblint
11914
Not sure what is going on. I'm in a kind of endless loop with the new registration screen popping up again and again, but my username and email are already taken, and password reset does not result in an email being sent to me. My old PC crashed and I'm on a new PC.
– mrblint
May 8 at 22:12
And I'm getting email notices when people reply to my questions, but the website thinks I'm not registered when I try to upvote or accept an answer.
– mrblint
May 9 at 9:34
You may have created two accounts. diy.stackexchange.com/help/merging-accounts
– isherwood
May 9 at 18:40
add a comment |
I've soldered new copper pipe but have never resoldered it.
A shiny band of silver solder remains on the end of the copper pipe after an elbow has been removed from it. Does that shiny band have to be sandpapered away, to get down to bare copper, before flux can be applied and a new elbow installed?
This is 1-1/2" copper drain pipe (DWV), if it makes any difference.
copper soldering
asked May 8 at 13:20
mrblintmrblint
11914
I've soldered new copper pipe but have never resoldered it.
A shiny band of silver solder remains on the end of the copper pipe after an elbow has been removed from it. Does that shiny band have to be sandpapered away, to get down to bare copper, before flux can be applied and a new elbow installed?
This is 1-1/2" copper drain pipe (DWV), if it makes any difference.
copper soldering
copper soldering
asked May 8 at 13:20
mrblintmrblint
11914
asked May 8 at 13:20
mrblintmrblint
11914
asked May 8 at 13:20
mrblintmrblint
11914
asked May 8 at 13:20
mrblintmrblint
11914
asked May 8 at 13:20
mrblintmrblint
11914
11914
Not sure what is going on. I'm in a kind of endless loop with the new registration screen popping up again and again, but my username and email are already taken, and password reset does not result in an email being sent to me. My old PC crashed and I'm on a new PC.
– mrblint
May 8 at 22:12
And I'm getting email notices when people reply to my questions, but the website thinks I'm not registered when I try to upvote or accept an answer.
– mrblint
May 9 at 9:34
You may have created two accounts. diy.stackexchange.com/help/merging-accounts
– isherwood
May 9 at 18:40
add a comment |
Not sure what is going on. I'm in a kind of endless loop with the new registration screen popping up again and again, but my username and email are already taken, and password reset does not result in an email being sent to me. My old PC crashed and I'm on a new PC.
– mrblint
May 8 at 22:12
And I'm getting email notices when people reply to my questions, but the website thinks I'm not registered when I try to upvote or accept an answer.
– mrblint
May 9 at 9:34
You may have created two accounts. diy.stackexchange.com/help/merging-accounts
– isherwood
May 9 at 18:40
Not sure what is going on. I'm in a kind of endless loop with the new registration screen popping up again and again, but my username and email are already taken, and password reset does not result in an email being sent to me. My old PC crashed and I'm on a new PC.
– mrblint
May 8 at 22:12
Not sure what is going on. I'm in a kind of endless loop with the new registration screen popping up again and again, but my username and email are already taken, and password reset does not result in an email being sent to me. My old PC crashed and I'm on a new PC.
– mrblint
May 8 at 22:12
And I'm getting email notices when people reply to my questions, but the website thinks I'm not registered when I try to upvote or accept an answer.
– mrblint
May 9 at 9:34
And I'm getting email notices when people reply to my questions, but the website thinks I'm not registered when I try to upvote or accept an answer.
– mrblint
May 9 at 9:34
You may have created two accounts. diy.stackexchange.com/help/merging-accounts
– isherwood
May 9 at 18:40
You may have created two accounts. diy.stackexchange.com/help/merging-accounts
– isherwood
May 9 at 18:40
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
The main problem, if any, assuming the solder band is complete and without flaws or gaps is if there's too much solder on the pipe and you cannot insert it into the fitting. The pipe is "tinned" or coated with solder, and there's nothing wrong with that.
The usual approach to making sure that the coating is thin enough is to wipe it down (while the solder is molten) with a rag - easiest if done when you heat it up to take it apart, but you can heat it up again and do that if the fitting won't seat properly as it is. That should leave it thin and nearly mirror-shiny, which is what you want. Caution is needed as you are dealing with hot, molten metal.
The basic secrets of soldering are that things should be physically clean (shiny metal) chemically clean (use appropriate flux) and not overheated (too much heat burns off the flux and solder won't wet the newly-oxidized surfaces.) The silvery solder is perfectly fine shiny metal. Dull gray solder needs to be cleaned up, but there's no need to go to copper.
answered May 8 at 14:16
EcnerwalEcnerwal
58.3k24398
Good to know. I've always assumed one must remove the old solder and "start over". So I sand...
– DonBoitnott
May 8 at 17:23
I know in the electronics world that contamination of lead free solder with small amounts of leaded solder can lead to significantly weakened joints. I don't know if this is a problem in the plumbing wolrd..
– Peter Green
May 9 at 1:57
add a comment |
No, as long as it's well-bonded and clean. Flux as normal.
Some will say you'll have a higher chance of success with clean copper, but it's the difference between 97% and 99%, especially since this is a non-pressurized joint.
answered May 8 at 13:40
isherwoodisherwood
52.6k562137
add a comment |
As the other answers for clean, but to re-do joints like that I use a brand of flux called "Power-flux" and it's more aggressive than ordinary flux, works a treat for those joints that don't "take" first time.
Do remember to clean it off well after.
answered May 8 at 17:04
Solar MikeSolar Mike
2,538313
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
The main problem, if any, assuming the solder band is complete and without flaws or gaps is if there's too much solder on the pipe and you cannot insert it into the fitting. The pipe is "tinned" or coated with solder, and there's nothing wrong with that.
The usual approach to making sure that the coating is thin enough is to wipe it down (while the solder is molten) with a rag - easiest if done when you heat it up to take it apart, but you can heat it up again and do that if the fitting won't seat properly as it is. That should leave it thin and nearly mirror-shiny, which is what you want. Caution is needed as you are dealing with hot, molten metal.
The basic secrets of soldering are that things should be physically clean (shiny metal) chemically clean (use appropriate flux) and not overheated (too much heat burns off the flux and solder won't wet the newly-oxidized surfaces.) The silvery solder is perfectly fine shiny metal. Dull gray solder needs to be cleaned up, but there's no need to go to copper.
answered May 8 at 14:16
EcnerwalEcnerwal
58.3k24398
Good to know. I've always assumed one must remove the old solder and "start over". So I sand...
– DonBoitnott
May 8 at 17:23
I know in the electronics world that contamination of lead free solder with small amounts of leaded solder can lead to significantly weakened joints. I don't know if this is a problem in the plumbing wolrd..
– Peter Green
May 9 at 1:57
add a comment |
The main problem, if any, assuming the solder band is complete and without flaws or gaps is if there's too much solder on the pipe and you cannot insert it into the fitting. The pipe is "tinned" or coated with solder, and there's nothing wrong with that.
The usual approach to making sure that the coating is thin enough is to wipe it down (while the solder is molten) with a rag - easiest if done when you heat it up to take it apart, but you can heat it up again and do that if the fitting won't seat properly as it is. That should leave it thin and nearly mirror-shiny, which is what you want. Caution is needed as you are dealing with hot, molten metal.
The basic secrets of soldering are that things should be physically clean (shiny metal) chemically clean (use appropriate flux) and not overheated (too much heat burns off the flux and solder won't wet the newly-oxidized surfaces.) The silvery solder is perfectly fine shiny metal. Dull gray solder needs to be cleaned up, but there's no need to go to copper.
answered May 8 at 14:16
EcnerwalEcnerwal
58.3k24398
Good to know. I've always assumed one must remove the old solder and "start over". So I sand...
– DonBoitnott
May 8 at 17:23
I know in the electronics world that contamination of lead free solder with small amounts of leaded solder can lead to significantly weakened joints. I don't know if this is a problem in the plumbing wolrd..
– Peter Green
May 9 at 1:57
add a comment |
The main problem, if any, assuming the solder band is complete and without flaws or gaps is if there's too much solder on the pipe and you cannot insert it into the fitting. The pipe is "tinned" or coated with solder, and there's nothing wrong with that.
The usual approach to making sure that the coating is thin enough is to wipe it down (while the solder is molten) with a rag - easiest if done when you heat it up to take it apart, but you can heat it up again and do that if the fitting won't seat properly as it is. That should leave it thin and nearly mirror-shiny, which is what you want. Caution is needed as you are dealing with hot, molten metal.
The basic secrets of soldering are that things should be physically clean (shiny metal) chemically clean (use appropriate flux) and not overheated (too much heat burns off the flux and solder won't wet the newly-oxidized surfaces.) The silvery solder is perfectly fine shiny metal. Dull gray solder needs to be cleaned up, but there's no need to go to copper.
answered May 8 at 14:16
EcnerwalEcnerwal
58.3k24398
The main problem, if any, assuming the solder band is complete and without flaws or gaps is if there's too much solder on the pipe and you cannot insert it into the fitting. The pipe is "tinned" or coated with solder, and there's nothing wrong with that.
The usual approach to making sure that the coating is thin enough is to wipe it down (while the solder is molten) with a rag - easiest if done when you heat it up to take it apart, but you can heat it up again and do that if the fitting won't seat properly as it is. That should leave it thin and nearly mirror-shiny, which is what you want. Caution is needed as you are dealing with hot, molten metal.
The basic secrets of soldering are that things should be physically clean (shiny metal) chemically clean (use appropriate flux) and not overheated (too much heat burns off the flux and solder won't wet the newly-oxidized surfaces.) The silvery solder is perfectly fine shiny metal. Dull gray solder needs to be cleaned up, but there's no need to go to copper.
answered May 8 at 14:16
EcnerwalEcnerwal
58.3k24398
answered May 8 at 14:16
EcnerwalEcnerwal
58.3k24398
answered May 8 at 14:16
EcnerwalEcnerwal
58.3k24398
answered May 8 at 14:16
EcnerwalEcnerwal
58.3k24398
58.3k24398
Good to know. I've always assumed one must remove the old solder and "start over". So I sand...
– DonBoitnott
May 8 at 17:23
I know in the electronics world that contamination of lead free solder with small amounts of leaded solder can lead to significantly weakened joints. I don't know if this is a problem in the plumbing wolrd..
– Peter Green
May 9 at 1:57
add a comment |
Good to know. I've always assumed one must remove the old solder and "start over". So I sand...
– DonBoitnott
May 8 at 17:23
I know in the electronics world that contamination of lead free solder with small amounts of leaded solder can lead to significantly weakened joints. I don't know if this is a problem in the plumbing wolrd..
– Peter Green
May 9 at 1:57
Good to know. I've always assumed one must remove the old solder and "start over". So I sand...
– DonBoitnott
May 8 at 17:23
Good to know. I've always assumed one must remove the old solder and "start over". So I sand...
– DonBoitnott
May 8 at 17:23
I know in the electronics world that contamination of lead free solder with small amounts of leaded solder can lead to significantly weakened joints. I don't know if this is a problem in the plumbing wolrd..
– Peter Green
May 9 at 1:57
I know in the electronics world that contamination of lead free solder with small amounts of leaded solder can lead to significantly weakened joints. I don't know if this is a problem in the plumbing wolrd..
– Peter Green
May 9 at 1:57
add a comment |
No, as long as it's well-bonded and clean. Flux as normal.
Some will say you'll have a higher chance of success with clean copper, but it's the difference between 97% and 99%, especially since this is a non-pressurized joint.
answered May 8 at 13:40
isherwoodisherwood
52.6k562137
add a comment |
No, as long as it's well-bonded and clean. Flux as normal.
Some will say you'll have a higher chance of success with clean copper, but it's the difference between 97% and 99%, especially since this is a non-pressurized joint.
answered May 8 at 13:40
isherwoodisherwood
52.6k562137
add a comment |
No, as long as it's well-bonded and clean. Flux as normal.
Some will say you'll have a higher chance of success with clean copper, but it's the difference between 97% and 99%, especially since this is a non-pressurized joint.
answered May 8 at 13:40
isherwoodisherwood
52.6k562137
No, as long as it's well-bonded and clean. Flux as normal.
Some will say you'll have a higher chance of success with clean copper, but it's the difference between 97% and 99%, especially since this is a non-pressurized joint.
answered May 8 at 13:40
isherwoodisherwood
52.6k562137
answered May 8 at 13:40
isherwoodisherwood
52.6k562137
answered May 8 at 13:40
isherwoodisherwood
52.6k562137
answered May 8 at 13:40
isherwoodisherwood
52.6k562137
52.6k562137
add a comment |
add a comment |
As the other answers for clean, but to re-do joints like that I use a brand of flux called "Power-flux" and it's more aggressive than ordinary flux, works a treat for those joints that don't "take" first time.
Do remember to clean it off well after.
answered May 8 at 17:04
Solar MikeSolar Mike
2,538313
add a comment |
As the other answers for clean, but to re-do joints like that I use a brand of flux called "Power-flux" and it's more aggressive than ordinary flux, works a treat for those joints that don't "take" first time.
Do remember to clean it off well after.
answered May 8 at 17:04
Solar MikeSolar Mike
2,538313
add a comment |
As the other answers for clean, but to re-do joints like that I use a brand of flux called "Power-flux" and it's more aggressive than ordinary flux, works a treat for those joints that don't "take" first time.
Do remember to clean it off well after.
answered May 8 at 17:04
Solar MikeSolar Mike
2,538313
As the other answers for clean, but to re-do joints like that I use a brand of flux called "Power-flux" and it's more aggressive than ordinary flux, works a treat for those joints that don't "take" first time.
Do remember to clean it off well after.
answered May 8 at 17:04
Solar MikeSolar Mike
2,538313
answered May 8 at 17:04
Solar MikeSolar Mike
2,538313
answered May 8 at 17:04
Solar MikeSolar Mike
2,538313
answered May 8 at 17:04
Solar MikeSolar Mike
2,538313
2,538313
add a comment |
add a comment |
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Not sure what is going on. I'm in a kind of endless loop with the new registration screen popping up again and again, but my username and email are already taken, and password reset does not result in an email being sent to me. My old PC crashed and I'm on a new PC.
– mrblint
May 8 at 22:12
And I'm getting email notices when people reply to my questions, but the website thinks I'm not registered when I try to upvote or accept an answer.
– mrblint
May 9 at 9:34
You may have created two accounts. diy.stackexchange.com/help/merging-accounts
– isherwood
May 9 at 18:40