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Two black wires into same terminal on light switch


3-Way Light Switch, two blacks and a red?Wiring light switch with neutral (Z-wave)which wires to connect when installing a dimmer switch?Changing out programmable Light Switch, wire help needed!Replacing Bath Fan/Light Switch wiringWiring a ceiling fan and light switch with two three-cable wiresRemove and Cap Light Switch WiresHow should ground wires be handled when updating switch loops in an older home?Two dimmers (for two separate lights) in one junction box where there's only White, Black and Red coming out of the wallFlickering lights on same switch













3















I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.



My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?



To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?



Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?



Thanks all!



Current gang box










share|improve this question









New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

    – user98434
    Mar 18 at 13:56















3















I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.



My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?



To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?



Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?



Thanks all!



Current gang box










share|improve this question









New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

    – user98434
    Mar 18 at 13:56













3












3








3








I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.



My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?



To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?



Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?



Thanks all!



Current gang box










share|improve this question









New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.



My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?



To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?



Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?



Thanks all!



Current gang box







electrical wiring smart-switch






share|improve this question









New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 2 days ago









manassehkatz

9,8121337




9,8121337






New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked Mar 18 at 13:35









user98434user98434

162




162




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New contributor





user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












  • For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

    – user98434
    Mar 18 at 13:56

















  • For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

    – user98434
    Mar 18 at 13:56
















For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

– user98434
Mar 18 at 13:56





For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

– user98434
Mar 18 at 13:56










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















3














A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.



It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.



From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.



To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.



Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.






share|improve this answer






























    1














    It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.



    If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.






    share|improve this answer


















    • 1





      Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

      – user98434
      Mar 18 at 13:58


















    0














    Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.



    As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.



    As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.






    share|improve this answer








    New contributor




    Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.




















    • I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

      – Ed Beal
      2 days ago










    Your Answer








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    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

    votes








    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    3














    A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.



    It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.



    From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.



    To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.



    Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.






    share|improve this answer



























      3














      A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.



      It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.



      From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.



      To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.



      Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.






      share|improve this answer

























        3












        3








        3







        A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.



        It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.



        From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.



        To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.



        Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.






        share|improve this answer













        A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.



        It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.



        From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.



        To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.



        Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered Mar 18 at 14:23









        HarperHarper

        74.1k448149




        74.1k448149























            1














            It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.



            If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.






            share|improve this answer


















            • 1





              Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

              – user98434
              Mar 18 at 13:58















            1














            It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.



            If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.






            share|improve this answer


















            • 1





              Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

              – user98434
              Mar 18 at 13:58













            1












            1








            1







            It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.



            If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.






            share|improve this answer













            It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.



            If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.







            share|improve this answer












            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer










            answered Mar 18 at 13:50









            bibbib

            31.2k95392




            31.2k95392







            • 1





              Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

              – user98434
              Mar 18 at 13:58












            • 1





              Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

              – user98434
              Mar 18 at 13:58







            1




            1





            Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

            – user98434
            Mar 18 at 13:58





            Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

            – user98434
            Mar 18 at 13:58











            0














            Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.



            As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.



            As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.






            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.




















            • I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

              – Ed Beal
              2 days ago















            0














            Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.



            As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.



            As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.






            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.




















            • I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

              – Ed Beal
              2 days ago













            0












            0








            0







            Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.



            As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.



            As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.






            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.










            Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.



            As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.



            As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.







            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.









            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer






            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.









            answered Mar 18 at 23:25









            Michael WondrashMichael Wondrash

            1




            1




            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.





            New contributor





            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.






            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.












            • I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

              – Ed Beal
              2 days ago

















            • I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

              – Ed Beal
              2 days ago
















            I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

            – Ed Beal
            2 days ago





            I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

            – Ed Beal
            2 days ago










            user98434 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









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Hall Of Fame””Slayer Wins 'Best Metal' Grammy Award””Slayer Guitarist Jeff Hanneman Dies””Bullet-For My Valentine booed at Metal Hammer Golden Gods Awards””Unholy Aliance””The End Of Slayer?””Slayer: We Could Thrash Out Two More Albums If We're Fast Enough...””'The Unholy Alliance: Chapter III' UK Dates Added”originalet”Megadeth And Slayer To Co-Headline 'Canadian Carnage' Trek”originalet”World Painted Blood””Release “World Painted Blood” by Slayer””Metallica Heading To Cinemas””Slayer, Megadeth To Join Forces For 'European Carnage' Tour - Dec. 18, 2010”originalet”Slayer's Hanneman Contracts Acute Infection; Band To Bring In Guest Guitarist””Cannibal Corpse's Pat O'Brien Will Step In As Slayer's Guest Guitarist”originalet”Slayer’s Jeff Hanneman Dead at 49””Dave Lombardo Says He Made Only $67,000 In 2011 While Touring With Slayer””Slayer: We Do Not Agree With Dave Lombardo's Substance Or Timeline Of Events””Slayer Welcomes Drummer Paul Bostaph Back To The Fold””Slayer Hope to Unveil Never-Before-Heard Jeff Hanneman Material on Next Album””Slayer Debut New Song 'Implode' During Surprise Golden Gods Appearance””Release group Repentless by Slayer””Repentless - Slayer - Credits””Slayer””Metal Storm Awards 2015””Slayer - to release comic book "Repentless #1"””Slayer To Release 'Repentless' 6.66" Vinyl Box Set””BREAKING NEWS: Slayer Announce Farewell Tour””Slayer Recruit Lamb of God, Anthrax, Behemoth + Testament for Final Tour””Slayer lägger ner efter 37 år””Slayer Announces Second North American Leg Of 'Final' Tour””Final World Tour””Slayer Announces Final European Tour With Lamb of God, Anthrax And Obituary””Slayer To Tour Europe With Lamb of God, Anthrax And Obituary””Slayer To Play 'Last French Show Ever' At Next Year's Hellfst””Slayer's Final World Tour Will Extend Into 2019””Death Angel's Rob Cavestany On Slayer's 'Farewell' Tour: 'Some Of Us Could See This Coming'””Testament Has No Plans To Retire Anytime Soon, Says Chuck Billy””Anthrax's Scott Ian On Slayer's 'Farewell' Tour Plans: 'I Was Surprised And I Wasn't Surprised'””Slayer””Slayer's Morbid Schlock””Review/Rock; For Slayer, the Mania Is the Message””Slayer - Biography””Slayer - Reign In Blood”originalet”Dave Lombardo””An exclusive oral history of Slayer”originalet”Exclusive! Interview With Slayer Guitarist Jeff Hanneman”originalet”Thinking Out Loud: Slayer's Kerry King on hair metal, Satan and being polite””Slayer Lyrics””Slayer - Biography””Most influential artists for extreme metal music””Slayer - Reign in Blood””Slayer guitarist Jeff Hanneman dies aged 49””Slatanic Slaughter: A Tribute to Slayer””Gateway to Hell: A Tribute to Slayer””Covered In Blood””Slayer: The Origins of Thrash in San Francisco, CA.””Why They Rule - #6 Slayer”originalet”Guitar World's 100 Greatest Heavy Metal Guitarists Of All Time”originalet”The fans have spoken: Slayer comes out on top in readers' polls”originalet”Tribute to Jeff Hanneman (1964-2013)””Lamb Of God Frontman: We Sound Like A Slayer Rip-Off””BEHEMOTH Frontman Pays Tribute To SLAYER's JEFF HANNEMAN””Slayer, Hatebreed Doing Double Duty On This Year's Ozzfest””System of a Down””Lacuna Coil’s Andrea Ferro Talks Influences, Skateboarding, Band Origins + More””Slayer - Reign in Blood””Into The Lungs of Hell””Slayer rules - en utställning om fans””Slayer and Their Fans Slashed Through a No-Holds-Barred Night at Gas Monkey””Home””Slayer””Gold & Platinum - The Big 4 Live from Sofia, Bulgaria””Exclusive! Interview With Slayer Guitarist Kerry King””2008-02-23: Wiltern, Los Angeles, CA, USA””Slayer's Kerry King To Perform With Megadeth Tonight! - Oct. 21, 2010”originalet”Dave Lombardo - Biography”Slayer Case DismissedArkiveradUltimate Classic Rock: Slayer guitarist Jeff Hanneman dead at 49.”Slayer: "We could never do any thing like Some Kind Of Monster..."””Cannibal Corpse'S Pat O'Brien Will Step In As Slayer'S Guest Guitarist | The Official Slayer Site”originalet”Slayer Wins 'Best Metal' Grammy Award””Slayer Guitarist Jeff Hanneman Dies””Kerrang! Awards 2006 Blog: Kerrang! Hall Of Fame””Kerrang! Awards 2013: Kerrang! Legend”originalet”Metallica, Slayer, Iron Maien Among Winners At Metal Hammer Awards””Metal Hammer Golden Gods Awards””Bullet For My Valentine Booed At Metal Hammer Golden Gods Awards””Metal Storm Awards 2006””Metal Storm Awards 2015””Slayer's Concert History””Slayer - Relationships””Slayer - Releases”Slayers officiella webbplatsSlayer på MusicBrainzOfficiell webbplatsSlayerSlayerr1373445760000 0001 1540 47353068615-5086262726cb13906545x(data)6033143kn20030215029