Right tool to dig six foot holes?
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I would like to dig some 6-12 inch diameter dry wells (any diameter in that range will work). The holes need to be at least 6 feet deep to reach the permeable layer of the soil. However, the equipment the local rental agency has will only dig 4-foot deep holes.
What is the right equipment to dig 6-foot holes?
The soil is clay with some sand. There are no rocks. It digs very easy.
digging
add a comment |
I would like to dig some 6-12 inch diameter dry wells (any diameter in that range will work). The holes need to be at least 6 feet deep to reach the permeable layer of the soil. However, the equipment the local rental agency has will only dig 4-foot deep holes.
What is the right equipment to dig 6-foot holes?
The soil is clay with some sand. There are no rocks. It digs very easy.
digging
If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.
– Robert Cline
7 hours ago
Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.
– Hot Licks
2 hours ago
add a comment |
I would like to dig some 6-12 inch diameter dry wells (any diameter in that range will work). The holes need to be at least 6 feet deep to reach the permeable layer of the soil. However, the equipment the local rental agency has will only dig 4-foot deep holes.
What is the right equipment to dig 6-foot holes?
The soil is clay with some sand. There are no rocks. It digs very easy.
digging
I would like to dig some 6-12 inch diameter dry wells (any diameter in that range will work). The holes need to be at least 6 feet deep to reach the permeable layer of the soil. However, the equipment the local rental agency has will only dig 4-foot deep holes.
What is the right equipment to dig 6-foot holes?
The soil is clay with some sand. There are no rocks. It digs very easy.
digging
digging
edited 12 hours ago
Tyler Durden
asked 18 hours ago
Tyler DurdenTyler Durden
4,34621642
4,34621642
If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.
– Robert Cline
7 hours ago
Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.
– Hot Licks
2 hours ago
add a comment |
If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.
– Robert Cline
7 hours ago
Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.
– Hot Licks
2 hours ago
If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.
– Robert Cline
7 hours ago
If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.
– Robert Cline
7 hours ago
Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.
– Hot Licks
2 hours ago
Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.
– Hot Licks
2 hours ago
add a comment |
5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
Depends a lot on the ground. The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them.
In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes.
Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence.
In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell.
Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap."
I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.
– DMoore
13 hours ago
add a comment |
On a side note... Not saying you haven't already, but make sure you call the utility locating company so you don't cut through a buried cable, water line, or worse... Buried electric. Can be deadly.
It's probably in the high price range for a small project, but there are machines called hydro vacs which dig holes with vacuum power and high pressure water. It's actually what I do for a living.
I've seen the similar process with high pressure air (to loosen the soil) and vacuum (to remove it) rather than water and vacuum, but it was quite pricy as well. Good for not cutting things that should not be cut, but quite pricy to get done.
– Ecnerwal
13 hours ago
Can the layperson rent and/or operate this device?
– isherwood
13 hours ago
Depends on local resources, I expect. I can easily (not cheaply) rent a sizable excavator in my area - this is a bit more specialized, though it has potential for DIY experimentation with a compressor or hose and a shop vac (on a tiny scale.)
– Ecnerwal
12 hours ago
There are smaller trailer-mounted hydrovac units that could get the job done, would require a large diesel truck or HD to pull it. Check any local Vermeer or Ditch Witch dealer for renting.
– BigLake
12 hours ago
1
does not answer the question
– Tyler Durden
9 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
I dug some deck footers a couple years ago and my rental shop had 10" auger bits with a two-man auger (4 handles and a motor in the middle) for about $100 a day, made quick work of several holes like you're talking about (I dug 7). The bit itself was only about 3' long, but they'd also rent an extension bar if you wanted to go deeper (I'm sure there's some max depth but it went as deep as I wanted.
Some of the other options presented are not cheap (hiring a backhoe or tractor-mounted auger) or very physically straining (clamshell, hand auger) so depending on your budget, physical fitness and local availability of tools, these two-man motorized augers might be a good option.
Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)
– Tyler Durden
7 hours ago
3
@TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works
– Dan
7 hours ago
add a comment |
Depends on your budget, and the value of your time.
1) Hand auger
These things are backbreaking - but if you have unlimited time they will eventually do the job. Notice the extensions? You can drill until you run out of extensions or the ground is too hard to cut. Performance is improved by using a sharp cutting edge, just like a sharp spade cuts better than a blunt one.
Note any rocks stop these things dead, so you have to use a crowbar to dislodge the rock, or dig another hole and hope to miss them all.
Also, a 4" / 100mm hole is half the work of a 6" / 150mm hole and is about 1/10th the work of a 12" / 300mm hole.
On the plus side, this tool is character-building, and great work for students on workdays :)
2) Tractor Mounted Auger / Post Hole Digger
This one is front-mounted
These are also found mounted on the rear PTO
For deeper holes, you use a longer auger
Naturally you would hire this tool rather than buy it. If you have no tractor then its better to just get a contractor to do it - probably drill all your holes in a morning session if you pre-clear access and clearly mark the locations before-hand.
It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.
– canadianer
8 hours ago
"Character-building", indeed.
– bishop
2 hours ago
@canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?
– Criggie
16 mins ago
add a comment |
My personal favorite is vacuum excavation. It's nothing fancy nor expensive; a respectably large wet-dry vac does the job nicely. By "respectably large" I'm suggesting something with a 2.5" suction hose and a 14 gallon or larger capacity.
The process is simple. Alternate between a tool that loosens the soil and the vacuum to remove soil from the growing hole. With two people working in a moderately sized hole the steps can be done concurrently. My tool of choice for loosening soil is a "digging bar." It's a straight steel bar about 6 feet long with a flat on one end and a point on the other. Occasionally a rock or clump of soil will block the hose and it'll have to be cleared, but progress is relatively quick and I find that it's much less effort than the traditional clamshell post hole digger.
Whereas your holes are to be 6 feet deep, and this is about the same length as the digging bar and also the pipe included with most wet-dry vacs, it may be necessary to extend these. Purely by way of example, Home Depot (US) offers an "extension wand accessory" for their Rigid brand vacuums; one or two of these may be enough to reach the bottom. The digging bar could be extended by welding or otherwise attaching a length of steel pipe at the end.
By the way: don't forget to empty the vacuum drum regularly. It turns out that 14+ gallons of soil is heavy!
add a comment |
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5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Depends a lot on the ground. The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them.
In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes.
Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence.
In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell.
Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap."
I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.
– DMoore
13 hours ago
add a comment |
Depends a lot on the ground. The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them.
In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes.
Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence.
In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell.
Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap."
I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.
– DMoore
13 hours ago
add a comment |
Depends a lot on the ground. The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them.
In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes.
Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence.
In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell.
Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap."
Depends a lot on the ground. The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them.
In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes.
Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence.
In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell.
Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap."
answered 13 hours ago
EcnerwalEcnerwal
55.3k23991
55.3k23991
I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.
– DMoore
13 hours ago
add a comment |
I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.
– DMoore
13 hours ago
I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.
– DMoore
13 hours ago
I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.
– DMoore
13 hours ago
add a comment |
On a side note... Not saying you haven't already, but make sure you call the utility locating company so you don't cut through a buried cable, water line, or worse... Buried electric. Can be deadly.
It's probably in the high price range for a small project, but there are machines called hydro vacs which dig holes with vacuum power and high pressure water. It's actually what I do for a living.
I've seen the similar process with high pressure air (to loosen the soil) and vacuum (to remove it) rather than water and vacuum, but it was quite pricy as well. Good for not cutting things that should not be cut, but quite pricy to get done.
– Ecnerwal
13 hours ago
Can the layperson rent and/or operate this device?
– isherwood
13 hours ago
Depends on local resources, I expect. I can easily (not cheaply) rent a sizable excavator in my area - this is a bit more specialized, though it has potential for DIY experimentation with a compressor or hose and a shop vac (on a tiny scale.)
– Ecnerwal
12 hours ago
There are smaller trailer-mounted hydrovac units that could get the job done, would require a large diesel truck or HD to pull it. Check any local Vermeer or Ditch Witch dealer for renting.
– BigLake
12 hours ago
1
does not answer the question
– Tyler Durden
9 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
On a side note... Not saying you haven't already, but make sure you call the utility locating company so you don't cut through a buried cable, water line, or worse... Buried electric. Can be deadly.
It's probably in the high price range for a small project, but there are machines called hydro vacs which dig holes with vacuum power and high pressure water. It's actually what I do for a living.
I've seen the similar process with high pressure air (to loosen the soil) and vacuum (to remove it) rather than water and vacuum, but it was quite pricy as well. Good for not cutting things that should not be cut, but quite pricy to get done.
– Ecnerwal
13 hours ago
Can the layperson rent and/or operate this device?
– isherwood
13 hours ago
Depends on local resources, I expect. I can easily (not cheaply) rent a sizable excavator in my area - this is a bit more specialized, though it has potential for DIY experimentation with a compressor or hose and a shop vac (on a tiny scale.)
– Ecnerwal
12 hours ago
There are smaller trailer-mounted hydrovac units that could get the job done, would require a large diesel truck or HD to pull it. Check any local Vermeer or Ditch Witch dealer for renting.
– BigLake
12 hours ago
1
does not answer the question
– Tyler Durden
9 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
On a side note... Not saying you haven't already, but make sure you call the utility locating company so you don't cut through a buried cable, water line, or worse... Buried electric. Can be deadly.
It's probably in the high price range for a small project, but there are machines called hydro vacs which dig holes with vacuum power and high pressure water. It's actually what I do for a living.
On a side note... Not saying you haven't already, but make sure you call the utility locating company so you don't cut through a buried cable, water line, or worse... Buried electric. Can be deadly.
It's probably in the high price range for a small project, but there are machines called hydro vacs which dig holes with vacuum power and high pressure water. It's actually what I do for a living.
edited 8 hours ago
BMitch♦
39.2k1375169
39.2k1375169
answered 13 hours ago
BigLakeBigLake
655215
655215
I've seen the similar process with high pressure air (to loosen the soil) and vacuum (to remove it) rather than water and vacuum, but it was quite pricy as well. Good for not cutting things that should not be cut, but quite pricy to get done.
– Ecnerwal
13 hours ago
Can the layperson rent and/or operate this device?
– isherwood
13 hours ago
Depends on local resources, I expect. I can easily (not cheaply) rent a sizable excavator in my area - this is a bit more specialized, though it has potential for DIY experimentation with a compressor or hose and a shop vac (on a tiny scale.)
– Ecnerwal
12 hours ago
There are smaller trailer-mounted hydrovac units that could get the job done, would require a large diesel truck or HD to pull it. Check any local Vermeer or Ditch Witch dealer for renting.
– BigLake
12 hours ago
1
does not answer the question
– Tyler Durden
9 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
I've seen the similar process with high pressure air (to loosen the soil) and vacuum (to remove it) rather than water and vacuum, but it was quite pricy as well. Good for not cutting things that should not be cut, but quite pricy to get done.
– Ecnerwal
13 hours ago
Can the layperson rent and/or operate this device?
– isherwood
13 hours ago
Depends on local resources, I expect. I can easily (not cheaply) rent a sizable excavator in my area - this is a bit more specialized, though it has potential for DIY experimentation with a compressor or hose and a shop vac (on a tiny scale.)
– Ecnerwal
12 hours ago
There are smaller trailer-mounted hydrovac units that could get the job done, would require a large diesel truck or HD to pull it. Check any local Vermeer or Ditch Witch dealer for renting.
– BigLake
12 hours ago
1
does not answer the question
– Tyler Durden
9 hours ago
I've seen the similar process with high pressure air (to loosen the soil) and vacuum (to remove it) rather than water and vacuum, but it was quite pricy as well. Good for not cutting things that should not be cut, but quite pricy to get done.
– Ecnerwal
13 hours ago
I've seen the similar process with high pressure air (to loosen the soil) and vacuum (to remove it) rather than water and vacuum, but it was quite pricy as well. Good for not cutting things that should not be cut, but quite pricy to get done.
– Ecnerwal
13 hours ago
Can the layperson rent and/or operate this device?
– isherwood
13 hours ago
Can the layperson rent and/or operate this device?
– isherwood
13 hours ago
Depends on local resources, I expect. I can easily (not cheaply) rent a sizable excavator in my area - this is a bit more specialized, though it has potential for DIY experimentation with a compressor or hose and a shop vac (on a tiny scale.)
– Ecnerwal
12 hours ago
Depends on local resources, I expect. I can easily (not cheaply) rent a sizable excavator in my area - this is a bit more specialized, though it has potential for DIY experimentation with a compressor or hose and a shop vac (on a tiny scale.)
– Ecnerwal
12 hours ago
There are smaller trailer-mounted hydrovac units that could get the job done, would require a large diesel truck or HD to pull it. Check any local Vermeer or Ditch Witch dealer for renting.
– BigLake
12 hours ago
There are smaller trailer-mounted hydrovac units that could get the job done, would require a large diesel truck or HD to pull it. Check any local Vermeer or Ditch Witch dealer for renting.
– BigLake
12 hours ago
1
1
does not answer the question
– Tyler Durden
9 hours ago
does not answer the question
– Tyler Durden
9 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
I dug some deck footers a couple years ago and my rental shop had 10" auger bits with a two-man auger (4 handles and a motor in the middle) for about $100 a day, made quick work of several holes like you're talking about (I dug 7). The bit itself was only about 3' long, but they'd also rent an extension bar if you wanted to go deeper (I'm sure there's some max depth but it went as deep as I wanted.
Some of the other options presented are not cheap (hiring a backhoe or tractor-mounted auger) or very physically straining (clamshell, hand auger) so depending on your budget, physical fitness and local availability of tools, these two-man motorized augers might be a good option.
Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)
– Tyler Durden
7 hours ago
3
@TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works
– Dan
7 hours ago
add a comment |
I dug some deck footers a couple years ago and my rental shop had 10" auger bits with a two-man auger (4 handles and a motor in the middle) for about $100 a day, made quick work of several holes like you're talking about (I dug 7). The bit itself was only about 3' long, but they'd also rent an extension bar if you wanted to go deeper (I'm sure there's some max depth but it went as deep as I wanted.
Some of the other options presented are not cheap (hiring a backhoe or tractor-mounted auger) or very physically straining (clamshell, hand auger) so depending on your budget, physical fitness and local availability of tools, these two-man motorized augers might be a good option.
Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)
– Tyler Durden
7 hours ago
3
@TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works
– Dan
7 hours ago
add a comment |
I dug some deck footers a couple years ago and my rental shop had 10" auger bits with a two-man auger (4 handles and a motor in the middle) for about $100 a day, made quick work of several holes like you're talking about (I dug 7). The bit itself was only about 3' long, but they'd also rent an extension bar if you wanted to go deeper (I'm sure there's some max depth but it went as deep as I wanted.
Some of the other options presented are not cheap (hiring a backhoe or tractor-mounted auger) or very physically straining (clamshell, hand auger) so depending on your budget, physical fitness and local availability of tools, these two-man motorized augers might be a good option.
I dug some deck footers a couple years ago and my rental shop had 10" auger bits with a two-man auger (4 handles and a motor in the middle) for about $100 a day, made quick work of several holes like you're talking about (I dug 7). The bit itself was only about 3' long, but they'd also rent an extension bar if you wanted to go deeper (I'm sure there's some max depth but it went as deep as I wanted.
Some of the other options presented are not cheap (hiring a backhoe or tractor-mounted auger) or very physically straining (clamshell, hand auger) so depending on your budget, physical fitness and local availability of tools, these two-man motorized augers might be a good option.
answered 8 hours ago
Fred ShopeFred Shope
21614
21614
Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)
– Tyler Durden
7 hours ago
3
@TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works
– Dan
7 hours ago
add a comment |
Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)
– Tyler Durden
7 hours ago
3
@TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works
– Dan
7 hours ago
Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)
– Tyler Durden
7 hours ago
Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)
– Tyler Durden
7 hours ago
3
3
@TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works
– Dan
7 hours ago
@TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works
– Dan
7 hours ago
add a comment |
Depends on your budget, and the value of your time.
1) Hand auger
These things are backbreaking - but if you have unlimited time they will eventually do the job. Notice the extensions? You can drill until you run out of extensions or the ground is too hard to cut. Performance is improved by using a sharp cutting edge, just like a sharp spade cuts better than a blunt one.
Note any rocks stop these things dead, so you have to use a crowbar to dislodge the rock, or dig another hole and hope to miss them all.
Also, a 4" / 100mm hole is half the work of a 6" / 150mm hole and is about 1/10th the work of a 12" / 300mm hole.
On the plus side, this tool is character-building, and great work for students on workdays :)
2) Tractor Mounted Auger / Post Hole Digger
This one is front-mounted
These are also found mounted on the rear PTO
For deeper holes, you use a longer auger
Naturally you would hire this tool rather than buy it. If you have no tractor then its better to just get a contractor to do it - probably drill all your holes in a morning session if you pre-clear access and clearly mark the locations before-hand.
It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.
– canadianer
8 hours ago
"Character-building", indeed.
– bishop
2 hours ago
@canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?
– Criggie
16 mins ago
add a comment |
Depends on your budget, and the value of your time.
1) Hand auger
These things are backbreaking - but if you have unlimited time they will eventually do the job. Notice the extensions? You can drill until you run out of extensions or the ground is too hard to cut. Performance is improved by using a sharp cutting edge, just like a sharp spade cuts better than a blunt one.
Note any rocks stop these things dead, so you have to use a crowbar to dislodge the rock, or dig another hole and hope to miss them all.
Also, a 4" / 100mm hole is half the work of a 6" / 150mm hole and is about 1/10th the work of a 12" / 300mm hole.
On the plus side, this tool is character-building, and great work for students on workdays :)
2) Tractor Mounted Auger / Post Hole Digger
This one is front-mounted
These are also found mounted on the rear PTO
For deeper holes, you use a longer auger
Naturally you would hire this tool rather than buy it. If you have no tractor then its better to just get a contractor to do it - probably drill all your holes in a morning session if you pre-clear access and clearly mark the locations before-hand.
It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.
– canadianer
8 hours ago
"Character-building", indeed.
– bishop
2 hours ago
@canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?
– Criggie
16 mins ago
add a comment |
Depends on your budget, and the value of your time.
1) Hand auger
These things are backbreaking - but if you have unlimited time they will eventually do the job. Notice the extensions? You can drill until you run out of extensions or the ground is too hard to cut. Performance is improved by using a sharp cutting edge, just like a sharp spade cuts better than a blunt one.
Note any rocks stop these things dead, so you have to use a crowbar to dislodge the rock, or dig another hole and hope to miss them all.
Also, a 4" / 100mm hole is half the work of a 6" / 150mm hole and is about 1/10th the work of a 12" / 300mm hole.
On the plus side, this tool is character-building, and great work for students on workdays :)
2) Tractor Mounted Auger / Post Hole Digger
This one is front-mounted
These are also found mounted on the rear PTO
For deeper holes, you use a longer auger
Naturally you would hire this tool rather than buy it. If you have no tractor then its better to just get a contractor to do it - probably drill all your holes in a morning session if you pre-clear access and clearly mark the locations before-hand.
Depends on your budget, and the value of your time.
1) Hand auger
These things are backbreaking - but if you have unlimited time they will eventually do the job. Notice the extensions? You can drill until you run out of extensions or the ground is too hard to cut. Performance is improved by using a sharp cutting edge, just like a sharp spade cuts better than a blunt one.
Note any rocks stop these things dead, so you have to use a crowbar to dislodge the rock, or dig another hole and hope to miss them all.
Also, a 4" / 100mm hole is half the work of a 6" / 150mm hole and is about 1/10th the work of a 12" / 300mm hole.
On the plus side, this tool is character-building, and great work for students on workdays :)
2) Tractor Mounted Auger / Post Hole Digger
This one is front-mounted
These are also found mounted on the rear PTO
For deeper holes, you use a longer auger
Naturally you would hire this tool rather than buy it. If you have no tractor then its better to just get a contractor to do it - probably drill all your holes in a morning session if you pre-clear access and clearly mark the locations before-hand.
answered 8 hours ago
CriggieCriggie
1,103618
1,103618
It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.
– canadianer
8 hours ago
"Character-building", indeed.
– bishop
2 hours ago
@canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?
– Criggie
16 mins ago
add a comment |
It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.
– canadianer
8 hours ago
"Character-building", indeed.
– bishop
2 hours ago
@canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?
– Criggie
16 mins ago
It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.
– canadianer
8 hours ago
It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.
– canadianer
8 hours ago
"Character-building", indeed.
– bishop
2 hours ago
"Character-building", indeed.
– bishop
2 hours ago
@canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?
– Criggie
16 mins ago
@canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?
– Criggie
16 mins ago
add a comment |
My personal favorite is vacuum excavation. It's nothing fancy nor expensive; a respectably large wet-dry vac does the job nicely. By "respectably large" I'm suggesting something with a 2.5" suction hose and a 14 gallon or larger capacity.
The process is simple. Alternate between a tool that loosens the soil and the vacuum to remove soil from the growing hole. With two people working in a moderately sized hole the steps can be done concurrently. My tool of choice for loosening soil is a "digging bar." It's a straight steel bar about 6 feet long with a flat on one end and a point on the other. Occasionally a rock or clump of soil will block the hose and it'll have to be cleared, but progress is relatively quick and I find that it's much less effort than the traditional clamshell post hole digger.
Whereas your holes are to be 6 feet deep, and this is about the same length as the digging bar and also the pipe included with most wet-dry vacs, it may be necessary to extend these. Purely by way of example, Home Depot (US) offers an "extension wand accessory" for their Rigid brand vacuums; one or two of these may be enough to reach the bottom. The digging bar could be extended by welding or otherwise attaching a length of steel pipe at the end.
By the way: don't forget to empty the vacuum drum regularly. It turns out that 14+ gallons of soil is heavy!
add a comment |
My personal favorite is vacuum excavation. It's nothing fancy nor expensive; a respectably large wet-dry vac does the job nicely. By "respectably large" I'm suggesting something with a 2.5" suction hose and a 14 gallon or larger capacity.
The process is simple. Alternate between a tool that loosens the soil and the vacuum to remove soil from the growing hole. With two people working in a moderately sized hole the steps can be done concurrently. My tool of choice for loosening soil is a "digging bar." It's a straight steel bar about 6 feet long with a flat on one end and a point on the other. Occasionally a rock or clump of soil will block the hose and it'll have to be cleared, but progress is relatively quick and I find that it's much less effort than the traditional clamshell post hole digger.
Whereas your holes are to be 6 feet deep, and this is about the same length as the digging bar and also the pipe included with most wet-dry vacs, it may be necessary to extend these. Purely by way of example, Home Depot (US) offers an "extension wand accessory" for their Rigid brand vacuums; one or two of these may be enough to reach the bottom. The digging bar could be extended by welding or otherwise attaching a length of steel pipe at the end.
By the way: don't forget to empty the vacuum drum regularly. It turns out that 14+ gallons of soil is heavy!
add a comment |
My personal favorite is vacuum excavation. It's nothing fancy nor expensive; a respectably large wet-dry vac does the job nicely. By "respectably large" I'm suggesting something with a 2.5" suction hose and a 14 gallon or larger capacity.
The process is simple. Alternate between a tool that loosens the soil and the vacuum to remove soil from the growing hole. With two people working in a moderately sized hole the steps can be done concurrently. My tool of choice for loosening soil is a "digging bar." It's a straight steel bar about 6 feet long with a flat on one end and a point on the other. Occasionally a rock or clump of soil will block the hose and it'll have to be cleared, but progress is relatively quick and I find that it's much less effort than the traditional clamshell post hole digger.
Whereas your holes are to be 6 feet deep, and this is about the same length as the digging bar and also the pipe included with most wet-dry vacs, it may be necessary to extend these. Purely by way of example, Home Depot (US) offers an "extension wand accessory" for their Rigid brand vacuums; one or two of these may be enough to reach the bottom. The digging bar could be extended by welding or otherwise attaching a length of steel pipe at the end.
By the way: don't forget to empty the vacuum drum regularly. It turns out that 14+ gallons of soil is heavy!
My personal favorite is vacuum excavation. It's nothing fancy nor expensive; a respectably large wet-dry vac does the job nicely. By "respectably large" I'm suggesting something with a 2.5" suction hose and a 14 gallon or larger capacity.
The process is simple. Alternate between a tool that loosens the soil and the vacuum to remove soil from the growing hole. With two people working in a moderately sized hole the steps can be done concurrently. My tool of choice for loosening soil is a "digging bar." It's a straight steel bar about 6 feet long with a flat on one end and a point on the other. Occasionally a rock or clump of soil will block the hose and it'll have to be cleared, but progress is relatively quick and I find that it's much less effort than the traditional clamshell post hole digger.
Whereas your holes are to be 6 feet deep, and this is about the same length as the digging bar and also the pipe included with most wet-dry vacs, it may be necessary to extend these. Purely by way of example, Home Depot (US) offers an "extension wand accessory" for their Rigid brand vacuums; one or two of these may be enough to reach the bottom. The digging bar could be extended by welding or otherwise attaching a length of steel pipe at the end.
By the way: don't forget to empty the vacuum drum regularly. It turns out that 14+ gallons of soil is heavy!
answered 2 hours ago
Greg HillGreg Hill
48124
48124
add a comment |
add a comment |
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If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.
– Robert Cline
7 hours ago
Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.
– Hot Licks
2 hours ago